Key Takeaways: Quick Fixes
- Check the Receiver Switch: Ensure the slider on the black box under the fireplace is set to "REMOTE," not "OFF" or "ON."
- Replace ALL Batteries: Don't just swap the ones in the remote. The receiver box inside the fireplace needs 4 fresh AA batteries too.
- Re-Sync the Remote: Press the "Program" button on the receiver box with a paperclip, then immediately press the "On" button on your remote until it beeps.
- Check Thermostat Mode: If the room is warmer than the set temperature on the remote, the fireplace wont turn on.
- Inspect Battery Contacts: Look for corrosion or loose springs in the battery compartment.
If your Regency fireplace remote isn't working, the problem is almost always dead batteries in the receiver box (the black box inside the fireplace access panel), or the remote has lost its "sync" with that receiver. Before you call a repair guy and spend $150, open the bottom panel of your fireplace, slide the switch on the black box to "REMOTE," change the 4 AA batteries inside that box, and press the tiny "PRG" (Program) button while hitting the "ON" button on your handheld remote.
That fixes about 90% of the issues right there. If that didn't do it, grab a coffee and a flashlight, and lets figure this out together. I've dealt with this plenty of times and usually, it's something silly.
Step 1: The "Secret" Batteries (The Receiver Box)
Okay, this is where most people get tripped up. You probably changed the batteries in the handheld remote, right? The little thing you hold in your hand. But did you change the batteries inside the fireplace?
Most Regency fireplaces use a system called a SIT Proflame or similar. These systems have a "receiver." It's a black plastic box, usually tucked underneath the firebox behind the bottom louvers or access panel. This box is the brain of the operation. It receives the signal from your remote and tells the gas valve to open.
Here is the kicker: that box runs on batteries too. Usually 4 AA batteries. If those die, the remote can scream "ON" all it wants, but the fireplace can't hear it.
How to find and fix it:
- Open the bottom panel: Usually, the bottom grill or louver of the fireplace folds down or pops off.
- Locate the box: Look for a black box. It might be wrapped in a metal heat shield to protect it from the heat.
- Check the switch: On the face of this box, there is a slider switch with three positions: ON, REMOTE, OFF.
- ON: This manually turns the fire on (bypassing the remote). Use this if your remote is broken and you're freezing.
- OFF: Turns everything off.
- REMOTE: This is where it needs to be for the clicker to work. Sometimes kids or pets bump this switch. Make sure it's firmly in the REMOTE position.
- Swap the batteries: Slide the cover off that box and put in brand new, high-quality batteries (like Duracell or Energizer). Don't use the cheap dollar store ones here; the heat inside the fireplace drains them faster.
According to most manuals, these batteries should be changed once a year, but honestly, I usually forget until it stops working. Just be careful when you touch the box if the pilot light has been on, it might be a little warm.
Step 2: The Re-Syncing Process (Pairing)
If you put fresh batteries in both the handheld remote and the receiver box and it's still playing dead, they probably stopped talking to each other. It happens. Maybe the batteries died for too long, or a power surge glitched it. You need to re-introduce them.
This process is technically called "pairing" or "learning," but I just call it syncing.
Here is exactly how you do it for most Regency models:
- Locate that same receiver box (the one you just put batteries in).
- Find the button labeled PRG or Program. It’s usually a small, recessed button. You might need a paperclip or a pen tip to press it, though some you can just push with your finger.
- Press and release the PRG button. The receiver box should let out a "Beep." That means it's listening.
- IMMEDIATELY (you have about 10-20 seconds) grab your handheld remote and press the ON button.
- If it works, the receiver box will beep again (usually a few times rapidly) to say, "Okay, I hear you. We are paired."
- Test it out. Turn the remote off, wait a sec, and turn it back on. The fire should roar to life.
If you don't hear the first beep when you press the PRG button, double-check that the batteries in the receiver are in the right way. I've put them in backwards more times than I care to admit.
Step 3: Check Your "Smart" Thermostat Settings
This one makes you feel a little silly when you realize it, but it happens to the best of us. Most Regency remotes have a "Thermostat" mode and a "Smart Thermostat" mode.
If your remote is set to Thermostat Mode, it acts like the thermostat on your wall for your furnace. You set a target temperature (say, 72°F). The remote has a sensor in it that feels the room temperature.
The Problem: If your remote is set to 72°F, but it's sitting in a sunbeam or you're holding it in your warm hand and it thinks the room is 74°F, it will not turn the fireplace on. It thinks its doing you a favor by not overheating the room.
The Fix: Look at your remote screen. Is there a little icon that looks like a thermometer? Check the "Set" temperature vs the "Room" temperature. Crank the "Set" temperature up to like 80°F and see if the fireplace kicks on. If it does, your remote isn't broken, it was just doing its job.
Step 4: Corrosion and Wiring
Fireplaces go through huge temperature swings. They get hot, they get cold. This causes metal to expand and contract, which can loosen wires over time. Also, if you left old batteries in the receiver box for two years (no judgment), they might have leaked battery acid.
Check the battery terminals:
Open the battery compartment on the receiver again. Look at the little metal springs and tabs. Are they shiny silver? Or do they have white/green crusty stuff on them? If they're crusty, grab a Q-tip dipped in a little vinegar or lemon juice and scrub it off. Dry it thoroughly before putting batteries back in. That corrosion blocks the electricity.
Check the wires (The "Wiggle Test"):
Coming out of that receiver box, there are usually two thin wires connected to terminals labeled TP and TH (or sometimes just connected to the valve). Make sure those wires are plugged in tight. Sometimes they get loose. If you see a loose wire dangling, that's your culprit. Push it back onto the terminal tab. It's low voltage, so you wont get shocked, but obviously don't do this while the fire is actively burning.
Step 5: The Pilot Light Situation
Does your fireplace have a pilot light (a small blue flame that stays on all the time)? Or is it an IPI (Intermittent Pilot Ignition) where it sparks every time you turn it on?
If you have a standing pilot light system, the pilot must be lit for the remote to work. The remote only controls the main burner gas; it cannot light the pilot for you if the pilot has gone out.
Look into the fireplace. Do you see the little blue flame?
NO: You need to follow the instructions on the metal plate (usually near the receiver box) to relight your pilot manually. Once the pilot is stable and staying on, then try your remote.
YES: If the pilot is on but the main burner won't ignite when you use the remote, it points back to the receiver box or the gas valve solenoid.
Step 6: "Lockout" Mode
Sometimes, modern electronics just get confused. If you've been mashing buttons or the ignition failed multiple times in a row, the system might go into a safety "Lockout." This is a safety feature to stop gas from building up.
To clear a lockout:
- Turn the remote into the OFF position.
- Slide the receiver switch to OFF.
- Wait about 5 minutes. This lets the internal logic board reset.
- Slide the switch back to REMOTE and try turning it on again.
It's basically the "turn it off and on again" fix for fireplaces.
Is it the Remote Handheld Itself?
Rarely, the actual handheld remote is the issue. If you dropped it on the hardwood floor or the dog chewed it, the internal crystal or transmitter might be busted.
A good way to test this: does the screen light up? When you press a button, does the little transmission icon (looks like wifi waves) appear on the screen? If the screen is blank even with new batteries, or if the buttons feel mushy and unresponsive, you might need to buy a replacement handheld.
You can usually find replacements online. Just look for the model number on the back of your current remote. It’s usually a "Skytech" or "SIT Proflame" model branded for Regency.
Deep Dive: Understanding the Receiver Box Types
Just so you know what you're looking at, Regency generally uses a few types of systems. Knowing which one you have helps if you end up having to Google the manual.
1. The Millivolt System (Older Models)
These are super simple. The receiver box makes a distinct "click" sound when it gets a signal. It doesn't use main power (usually), just the batteries and the voltage generated by the pilot light (thermopile). If the pilot is weak, the voltage drops, and the remote receiver won't have enough juice to open the valve. Fix: Clean your pilot assembly if the flame looks small or yellow.
2. The IPI System (Newer Models - Proflame 1 & 2)
These are the ones usually plugged into a wall outlet (AC adapter) but have a battery backup.
Pro Tip: If your power goes out, the batteries in the backup allow you to start the fire. But if those batteries died three years ago, you're out of luck during a storm. This is why I always say check the receiver batteries even if the fireplace is plugged into the wall!
When to Call a Professional
I'm all for DIY, but gas appliances aren't something to mess around with if you aren't sure. You should stop what you are doing and call a certified technician if:
- You smell gas. (Seriously, get out of the house and call the gas company).
- The wires look melted. If you see melted insulation on the wires near the valve, that indicates an overheating issue that needs professional repair.
- The Pilot won't stay lit. If you follow the lighting instructions and the pilot lights but dies as soon as you let go of the knob, you probably need a new thermocouple or thermopile. That's a wrench-turning job.
- Soot buildup. If the glass is turning black quickly or the flames look weirdly "lazy" and dark orange/black tips, the air-to-fuel mix is wrong.
Preventative Maintenance (So this doesn't happen next winter)
To avoid this headache next year, here is what I do. When I change my smoke detector batteries (usually when daylight savings ends), I change the fireplace receiver batteries too. It costs me $5 in batteries to ensure I don't have to crawl on the floor in the middle of a blizzard.
Also, during the summer when you aren't using the fireplace, take the batteries out of the remote. It prevents them from leaking acid inside the expensive remote control.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my Regency fireplace receiver beeping?
If the receiver box starts beeping (usually one beep every few seconds), it’s a cry for help. It almost always means the ambient temperature around the box is getting too hot, or more commonly, the batteries inside the box are low. Change the batteries first. If it keeps beeping while the fire is running, the box might be getting overheated-ensure the heat shield is in place.
Can I use a universal remote for my Regency fireplace?
Generally, no. You can't just buy a TV remote and program it. However, many gas fireplaces use standard "Skytech" or "SIT" remotes. You can often buy a generic Skytech remote kit that includes a new receiver and remote, and swap the whole system out if you are handy. It’s cheaper than buying the "Regency" branded part, but you need to make sure the wiring harness matches.
What does the "CP" mean on my remote?
On some Proflame remotes, "CP" stands for Continuous Pilot. This means the pilot light stays on all the time (good for cold climates to keep the draft going). If you want to save gas, you can switch it to "IPI" (Intermittent Pilot Ignition), where the pilot only lights when you want a fire. Consult your specific manual on how to toggle this; usually, it's a switch on the remote battery cover or a button combination.
The remote works, but the fire turns off after a few minutes. Why?
This is usually the batteries in the receiver box being "weak" but not "dead." They have enough power to open the valve, but not enough to hold it open against the spring pressure for long. Replace them with fresh, premium alkaline batteries. Lithium batteries are actually great here because they handle heat better.
Do I need to turn the gas off to change the batteries?
No, you don't need to shut the gas supply off just to change the batteries in the receiver box. Just make sure the fireplace is cool so you don't burn your hands.

