FIXED: car remote starter not working

FIXED: Why Your Car Remote Starter Is Not Working

If your car remote starter isn't working, replace the battery in your key fob first. It is the cause 90% of the time. If the battery is new, your car is likely in "Valet Mode" or the hood latch sensor is broken/corroded, which tells the computer the hood is open and prevents starting for safety. Check these three things immediately before calling a mechanic.

Alright, let's get into the nitty-gritty. I know how frustrating this is. It's freezing outside, you just want to get into a warm car, and you're standing at the window pressing a button like a maniac and nothing happens. I've been there. Honestly, it ruins the morning.

I'm going to walk you through exactly how to fix this, step-by-step. We will start with the easiest stuff and move to the harder stuff. You usually don't need tools for the first few steps.

1. The Remote Battery (Don't Trust the LED)

Here is the thing most people get wrong. You press the button, the little red or blue light on the remote flashes, so you think "The battery is fine." Wrong.

sending a signal to start a car takes way more power than just flashing a tiny LED light. The battery might have enough juice to blink the light but not enough to throw the radio signal 500 feet to your driveway. If you haven't changed that battery in a year or two, just do it. It costs like $5 for a two-pack of CR2032s at the grocery store.

How to do it:

• Look for a small slot on the side of the fob.
• Use a dime or a flathead screwdriver to twist it open.
• Swap the battery (make sure the positive side is facing the right way!).
• Snap it back together and test it.

If that works, you're welcome. If not, keep reading because it gets a bit more technical.

2. You Might Be in "Valet Mode"

I did this to myself last winter. I sat on my keys weirdly and triggered "Valet Mode." basically, this is a mode designed for when you hand your keys to a parking attendant. It allows them to lock and unlock the car, but it disables the remote starter so they don't accidentally start your car in an enclosed garage (which is dangerous because of carbon monoxide).

Signs you are in Valet Mode:

• The parking lights flash but the engine doesn't crank.
• The LED on an aftermarket antenna (usually stuck on your windshield) is solid blue or red, not flashing.
• Your 2-way remote (the kind with a screen) shows a "Zzz" icon.

How to fix it:

This varies by brand, but here are the common ways:

For Aftermarket (Viper, Compustar, Python): Try opening your driver's door and pressing the foot brake. Then press the "Lock" and "Unlock" buttons on your remote at the same time. Or, look for the toggle switch under your dashboard and flip it.

For Factory Systems (Ford, Chevy, Toyota): Usually, you have to go through the settings menu on your dashboard screen. Look under "Vehicle Settings" and make sure "Remote Start" is checked "On."

3. The Hood Pin Switch (The Silent Killer)

This is probably the most common mechanical failure. Your car has a safety feature that prevents the remote starter from working if the hood is open. Why? Because if a mechanic is working on the engine, you don't want someone inside the house accidentally remote starting the car and chopping off the mechanic's fingers with the fan belt.

The sensor that detects this is called a Hood Pin Switch or a tilt switch. It's usually a little rubber plunger near the front of the engine bay, or it's built into the latch itself.

Because it sits right at the front of the car, it gets hit with salt, water, and road grime constantly. It gets rusty. When it corrodes, the circuit breaks, and the car thinks the hood is always open.

The Test: get in your car and look at the dashboard. Does it say "Hood Ajar" or show a picture of the car with the hood up? If it does, and your hood is definitely closed, that sensor is your problem. You can try cleaning it with some WD-40 and a wire brush, or just disconnect it temporarily to see if the starter works (but please, get it fixed for safety).

4. The "Check Engine" Light is On

Car manufacturers are smart but they are also strict. If your "Check Engine" light (CEL) is on, almost all factory remote starters will disable themselves. The car computer basically says, "I'm sick, don't run me without a driver present."

Even a minor issue, like a loose gas cap, can trigger a Check Engine light. If you see that orange engine symbol on your dash, that is why your remote start isn't working.

You need to clear the code. You can go to an auto parts store and they usually scan it for free, or buy a cheap OBD2 scanner online. Once the engine light is off, the remote start should work again immediately.

5. Door Locks and Safety logic

Here is a funny quirk about remote starters: The car usually must be locked first. It sounds obvious, but sometimes a door lock actuator fails.

If you press "Lock" on your fob, watch the car. Do all the doors actually lock? If the car thinks a door is still unlocked or a trunk is slightly popped open, it will refuse the remote start command. Walk around the car and physically check that every door is shut tight and locked.

6. Cold Weather Effects

Ironically, remote starters fail most often when it is super cold-exactly when you need them. Extreme cold drops the voltage in your car battery. Your car battery might have enough power to turn the lights on, but when the remote starter module tries to draw power, the voltage might dip too low, and the system aborts the start to save the battery for when you actually get in with the key.

If it's -20 degrees out and the starter attempts to crank but stops, your car battery is probably on its last legs. You might need a jump start or a new battery entirely.

7. The Toggle Switch (Aftermarket Systems)

If you have a system installed by a shop (like Best Buy or a local audio place), there is almost always a physical "Kill Switch" installed somewhere. This is a manual override.

Mechanics use this switch to disable the system when they work on the car. Sometimes, you might kick it with your foot accidentally while driving. look under the driver's side dashboard, near where your knees would be. Look for a small black toggle switch. Flip it and try the remote again. You'd be surprised how often this is the fix.

8. Reprogramming the Fob

Sometimes, the car and the remote just have a bad breakup. They lose sync. This can happen if the car battery died recently or if you changed the fob battery and took too long doing it.

You might need to reprogram the remote to the car. This procedure is wildly different for every car. For a lot of GM vehicles (Chevy/GMC), you hold the lock and unlock buttons while the key is in the ignition. For others, you have to turn the key from "Off" to "Run" five times in ten seconds.

I can't list them all here, but a quick Google search for "Reprogram remote fob [Your Car Year and Model]" will give you the sequence. According to Wikipedia and various enthusiast forums, losing signal synchronization is common in older rolling-code systems.

Troubleshooting by Brand (Quick Tips)

I've noticed specific brands have specific personalities when it comes to failing.

Ford / Lincoln:

If your Ford remote start isn't working, check the dashboard menu. Ford has a setting called "System Check" on the dash. Also, Ford is very sensitive to the Hood Switch. If the alarm goes off randomly at night, and the remote start doesn't work, replace the hood latch assembly.

Chevrolet / GMC:

These are notorious for disabling remote start if there is any check engine light. Even an EVAP code (gas fumes). Also, verify your spare key works. Chevy fobs tend to have the solder joints break inside on the battery contacts.

Toyota:

Many Toyota factory remote starts require you to press "Lock" three times, holding the third press. It's tricky timing. Also, if you have a low fuel light on, some newer Toyotas won't remote start to prevent you from running the tank dry.

Honda:

Honda fobs are pretty reliable, but the car battery voltage sensor is sensitive. If the battery management system detects the car has been sitting for a week, it might disable remote functions to preserve power to start the engine manually.

When to Call a Professional

Look, I'm all for DIY. I love fixing stuff in the driveway. But there comes a point where you might mess up the electronics if you keep pushing.

If you have checked the fob battery, ensured the check engine light is off, verified the car isn't in Valet mode, and checked the hood latch, and it still won't work... it might be the actual Remote Start Module (the brain) that is fried. Or worse, a wiring issue.

Wires under the dash can get loose over time due to vibration. If a ground wire comes loose, the system shuts down. Unless you are comfortable with a multimeter and reading wiring diagrams, this is the time to take it to a 12-volt specialist (car audio shop). They can usually diagnose a bad module in about 15 minutes.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can a remote starter drain my car battery?

A: Generally, no. However, if the installation was done poorly (incorrect wiring), or if the module is defective, it can draw power when the car is off. This is called a "parasitic draw." If your battery dies every 2 days, this might be why.

Q: Why do my lights flash but the car doesn't start?

A: The flashes are actually a code! Count them. For example, on a Viper system, 2 flashes might mean "Hood Open," while 7 flashes might mean "Manual Transmission Mode Error." Check your owner's manual for the "Shutdown Diagnostics" chart.

Q: Can I reset my remote starter by disconnecting the car battery?

A: Yes, this is the classic "Have you tried turning it off and on again?" trick. Disconnect the negative (black) terminal of your car battery for about 10 minutes. This resets the car's computers and the remote start module. It works about 30% of the time.

Q: How much does it cost to fix a remote starter?

A: If it's just a battery, $5. If it's a hood pin, maybe $20 for the part. If the module is dead, you're looking at anywhere from $150 to $400 for a replacement and labor.

Q: My car starts, runs for 5 seconds, and then shuts off. Why?

A: This is usually a "Tachometer Signal" issue. The remote starter needs to know the engine is running. If it can't "hear" the engine RPMs, it shuts down to prevent grinding the starter. You usually need to re-learn the Tach signal (check your manual for the button sequence).

Hopefully, this gets you back on the road and into a warm car. Good luck!