Will Remote Start Work If Check Engine Light Is On

The Short Answer

If your Check Engine Light is on, your remote start is almost certainly not going to work.

For the vast majority of vehicles made in the last 10 to 15 years, the factory remote start system is programmed to disable itself the second that orange engine icon pops up on your dashboard. It doesn't matter if it's a Ford, a Chevy, a Honda, or a Toyota. If the computer senses a problem, it shuts down the remote start feature immediately.

It's frustrating, I know. Especially when its freezing outside and you just want the car to warm up. But the car is actually trying to do you a favor. Let's dig into why this happens and what you can do about it.

Why Does the Car Disable Remote Start?

It feels like the car is punishing you, but it's really about self-preservation.

When you use remote start, you are not in the vehicle to monitor the gauges. You aren't there to smell burning oil, see the temperature needle spiking into the red, or hear a weird knocking sound. Because the car is running unattended, the manufacturer has to assume the worst-case scenario.

The computer (often called the ECU or PCM) thinks like this: "I have a fault code detected. I don't know if this is just a loose gas cap or if the engine is about to explode. Since the driver isn't here to shut me off if things go south, I'm not going to start at all."

It’s All About "Limp Mode" and Liability

You might have heard of "Limp Mode," where a car limits its speed to protect the transmission or engine. Disabling remote start is a similar concept. Car makers like General Motors and Toyota don't want to be liable if your car overheats and catches fire in your driveway because the remote start bypassed a critical warning.

According to most owner's manuals, the remote start is considered a luxury or convenience feature, not an essential one. So, at the first sign of trouble, the system cuts the luxury features to focus on core functionality.

Factory vs. Aftermarket Remote Starters

This is where things get a little bit tricky. The rule about the Check Engine Light mostly applies to factory-installed remote starters.

Factory Systems (OEM)

If your remote start came with the car (you use the key fob with the car logo on it), it is deeply integrated into the car's brain. It checks a list of conditions before firing the spark plugs:

• Are the doors locked?
• Is the hood closed?
• Is the transmission in Park?
• Is the Check Engine Light off?

If any of those answer is "No," the car won't start. Usually, the lights will flash at you-maybe just once or three times-to tell you it failed, but the engine wont turn over.

Aftermarket Systems (Viper, Compustar, etc.)

If you had a system installed at a shop like Best Buy or a local audio place, you might be able to start the car even with the light on.

Older aftermarket systems were pretty simple. They just looked for a signal that the engine was running (tach signal) and didn't care about the computer's error codes. However, modern aftermarket systems that use a "data bypass module" to talk to your car's computer are getting smarter. Many of them now read the vehicle's status and will also refuse to start if the CEL is on, mimicking the factory safety protocols.

Warning: If you have an older aftermarket starter that does work while the light is on, be very careful. You are running the engine blind without knowing what is wrong with it.

The "Stupid" Reason Your Light is On: The Gas Cap

I can't tell you how many times I've had friends panic because their brand new truck wouldn't remote start, thinking the engine was blown, only to find out it was the gas cap.

If your gas cap is loose, cracked, or just didn't click enough times when you filled up, the car detects an "EVAP system leak." Basically, fuel vapors are escaping. While this isn't going to hurt the engine mechanically, the computer treats it as an emissions failure. It throws a Check Engine Light (often code P0440 or P0442).

Because the light is on, the remote start gets disabled.

The Fix: Tighten the cap until it clicks. Note that the light won't go off immediately. You usually have to drive the car for a few cycles (start, drive, stop) over a day or two for the computer to re-check the system and turn the light off. Once the light is off, your remote start will work again.

Specific Manufacturer Behaviors

While the general rule is "No Start," different brands handle this a little differently. Here is what I've seen across the major brands.

Ford

Ford is very strict about this. Whether it is an F-150 or an Explorer, if that light is on, the remote start is dead. Usually, if you try to use the key fob, the horn will honk once, or the lights will flash, but the engine stays silent. Ford’s system checks for "dtc codes" (diagnostic trouble codes) instantly.

General Motors (Chevy, GMC, Cadillac)

GM is the same. If you use the OnStar app or the myChevrolet app to try and start it, the app will actually send you a notification saying "Remote Start Failed" and might even give you a hint that there is an engine issue. It saves you from guessing why it didn't work.

Toyota / Lexus

Toyota is incredibly safety-focused. Not only does the Check Engine Light disable remote start, but often things like a low tire pressure warning or a door that isn't fully latched will kill it too. On newer Toyotas with the SOS/Connect systems, the app is pretty good about telling you that a "Vehicle Alert" is preventing the start.

Honda / Acura

Honda acts much like the others. However, I have seen some older Hondas allow a start if the code is considered "low priority," though this is rare. Modern Honda Sensing equipped cars will definitely lock you out of remote start if the dashboard is lit up.

Subaru

Subaru’s Starlink system is sensitive. If you have a CEL, the Starlink app will likely gray out the start button or give you an error message immediately.

How to Troubleshoot and Fix It

So, you're stuck in the cold and the car won't start remotely. What do you do? You have a few options, ranging from free to expensive.

1. Check the Obvious Basics

Before you freak out about the engine light, make sure the car isn't disabling remote start for a different reason.

• Is the hood fully closed? (A bad hood latch sensor is a super common cause for remote start failure).
• Is the spare key inside the car? (Most cars won't remote start if they detect a fob inside the cabin to prevent theft).
• Are the hazard lights on?

If all those are fine, and the Check Engine Light is definitely on, move to step 2.

2. Get the Code Read

You don't need to pay a mechanic $100 just to see why the light is on. Go to an auto parts store like AutoZone, O'Reillys, or Advance Auto Parts. They will almost always plug a scanner into your car for free and give you a printout of the error code.

Alternatively, buy a cheap OBD2 scanner on Amazon for like $20. It connects to your phone via Bluetooth. It’s a tool every driver should have in their glovebox honestly.

3. "Clear" the Code (The Temporary Fix)

If you scan the code and it turns out to be something minor-like that loose gas cap or maybe an O2 sensor that is acting up-you can use the scanner to "Clear Codes."

This wipes the computer's memory. The Check Engine Light will turn off. As soon as the light turns off, your remote start will work again.

However, and this is a big however... if you didn't actually fix the problem, the light is going to come back on. It might take 10 miles of driving, or it might happen the next time you start the car. But once it comes back, remote start is disabled again.

4. The Battery Disconnect Method

You might read online that you can just disconnect the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes to reset the computer.

Does this work? Yes, usually.
Should you do it? Maybe not.

On modern cars, disconnecting the battery can reset your radio presets, your seat memory, and sometimes mess with the idle relearn process (making the car run rough for a few days). It resets the Check Engine Light, but it's kind of a hassle. I'd stick to using a scanner tool instead.

Is It Dangerous to Bypass This?

Let's say you have an aftermarket starter that does let you start the car with the light on. Should you do it?

It depends on the code.

Safe to run:

• EVAP codes: (Gas cap, vent valve). These are emissions issues and wont blow up your engine.
• O2 Sensor (Heater circuit): Usually just means the car runs a little rich.
• Thermostat code (stuck open): The car takes longer to warm up, but it won't overheat.

DANGEROUS to run:

• Misfire (P0300 series): If the light is flashing, DO NOT remote start. You are dumping raw fuel into the catalytic converter and can destroy it in minutes.
• Oil Pressure issues: If the computer thinks oil pressure is low, starting the engine remotely could seize the engine block.
• Coolant Temperature codes: If the car thinks it's overheating, let it be.

Because you can't know which code it is while you are sitting inside your house drinking coffee, the manufacturers just decided to ban remote starting across the board. It is the safer bet for them and for your warranty.

Other Reasons Remote Start Fails (Besides the CEL)

Just to cover all our bases, if your Check Engine Light is OFF and the remote start still isn't working, check these things:

1. Too Many Starts: Most cars only allow two remote start "cycles" (usually 10 or 15 minutes each) in a row. After that, you must physically go out and turn the key in the ignition to reset the counter.

2. Low Battery Voltage: If your car battery is getting old and weak, the remote start system might detect that voltage is too low to crank safely and will abort the start to save enough juice for you to start it manually.

3. Valet Mode: Some aftermarket systems have a "Valet Mode" that disables the remote start (so a valet parker doesn't accidentally trigger it). Usually, you toggle this by pressing a weird combination of buttons on the remote.

Summary

So, to wrap this up: Will remote start work if the check engine light is on? No.

It’s a bummer, but it's normal behavior. The car is protecting itself. The best thing you can do is get that code scanned as soon as possible. It might be something silly and cheap to fix, and then you can get back to stepping into a warm car on those freezing mornings.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Q: If I clear the code with a scanner, can I remote start immediately?
A: Yes. As soon as the computer sees the "Check Engine" status is OFF, the remote start feature is re-enabled. Just remember, if the problem isn't fixed, the light will come back and disable it again later.

Q: Can I program the car to ignore the Check Engine Light?
A: Not with standard consumer tools. You would need specialized tuning software (like HP Tuners) to tell the ECU to ignore specific codes or to enable remote start regardless of faults. This voids warranties and isn't recommended for the average driver.

Q: My Check Engine Light is on, but it's just for an O2 sensor. Why won't it let me decide?
A: The car's computer isn't smart enough to have a debate with you. It works on binary logic: Is there a fault? Yes. Then disable remote start. It doesn't discriminate between a minor emissions leak and a major engine failure.

Q: Will the remote start work if the TPMS (Tire Pressure) light is on?
A: Usually, yes. Most cars treat Tire Pressure lights differently than Engine lights. However, some newer, high-tech safety cars (like some upscale Toyotas or Volvos) might prevent it if the tire pressure is critically low, but that is less common.

Q: Does the "Maintenance Required" light stop remote start?
A: Typically, no. The "Maintenance Required" or "Service Due" light is just a reminder to change your oil. It is different from the "Check Engine" light (which indicates a malfunction). Your remote start should still work fine with a maintenance reminder.