Key Takeaways
- Check Engine Light: If your dashboard shows a check engine light (CEL), remote start is automatically disabled by the truck's computer.
- Hood Latch Sensor: A faulty hood latch sensor is a very common failure on the 2015 Silverado; if the truck thinks the hood is open, it won't start.
- Key Fob Battery: Often overlooked, a weak CR2032 battery in your remote is the simplest fix.
- Settings Menu: Ensure the feature wasn't accidentally turned off in the MyLink "Vehicle Settings" menu.
- Safety Lockouts: Low fuel, hazard lights on, or key left inside the vehicle will prevent remote starting.
The Short Answer: Why It's Not Working
If your 2015 Chevy Silverado remote start isn't working, the first thing you need to look at is your dashboard. Is the Check Engine Light on? If it is, that is 100% your problem. GM programs these trucks to disable the remote start feature anytime there is an active engine code to prevent you from damaging the engine without knowing it.
If there is no light on the dash, the second most likely culprit is your hood latch sensor or a dying battery in your key fob. Don't worry, we are going to walk through all of this below so you can get your truck warming up again before winter hits hard.
The "Big Three" Common Causes
Im going to be honest with you, 90% of the time the issue falls into one of these three categories. Before you go spending money at a dealership, check these first.
1. The Check Engine Light (CEL)
As I mentioned above, this is the main safety feature. Even if the light isn't currently glowing bright orange, there might be a "stored code" in the computer. Sometimes a code is pending, meaning the computer noticed something weird but hasn't triggered the light yet.
The Fix: You need an OBDII scanner. You can buy a cheap one online for like $20 or go to an auto parts store like AutoZone; they usually scan it for free. If you clear the codes, the remote start should work again immediately. However, remember that clearing the code doesn't fix the underlying problem with the engine, so the light might come back on later.
2. The Hood Latch Sensor
This one drives Silverado owners crazy. There is a sensor in the latch mechanism under the hood that tells the truck if the hood is closed. If this sensor fails or gets gunked up with grease and road grime, the truck thinks the hood is wide open.
According to the safety protocols, the truck will absolutely not remote start if it thinks the hood is up. This is so you don't accidentally start the engine while a mechanic has their hands near the fan belt.
How to check: get in the truck, shut the door, and turn the key to the "On" position. Look at your Driver Information Center (the screen between your gauges). Does it say "Hood Open"? If it does, and your hood is definitely closed, you need to clean or replace that latch sensor.
3. The Key Fob Battery
Sometimes the simplest answer is the right one. Even if the fob still unlocks the doors, the battery might be too weak to send the strong, sustained signal needed for the remote start sequence. The remote start signal requires a bit more juice than a simple door unlock command.
The Fix: Swap out the battery. The 2015 Silverado usually takes a CR2032 battery. Its cheap and takes two minutes to change. You just pop the fob open with a flathead screwdriver.
Deep Dive: Checking Your Settings
Sometimes, settings get changed. Maybe your battery died recently and the truck reset itself, or maybe you let someone borrow the truck and they messed with the buttons. You need to make sure the system is actually turned on.
Here is how you check it on the Chevy MyLink screen:
- Press the Home button on your center screen.
- Tap on Settings.
- Select Vehicle.
- Scroll down to Remote Lock, Unlock, Start.
- Look for Remote Start and make sure it is toggled to "On".
While you are in there, check the "Remote Start Cooled/Heated Seats" options too if you have the luxury trim. Might as well be comfortable, right?
Safety Lockouts: The Hidden "No-Go" Conditions
Chevy engineered a lot of safety logic into the 2015 Silverado. Its not just about the engine light. There is a laundry list of conditions that, if met, will prevent the truck from firing up. If you are scratching your head because the engine light is off and the fob battery is new, check this list.
Hazard Lights
If your hazard flashers are on, remote start is disabled. This sounds weird, but the logic is that if hazards are on, the truck might be in distress or parked illegally, and shouldn't be started remotely.
Key Location
Is a spare key sitting inside the cup holder? If the truck detects a key fob inside the cabin, it wont remote start. This is to prevent theft (so someone can't just smash the window and drive off after you start it).
Fluid Levels and Pressures
The truck is smart. If the oil pressure is reading dangerously low, or the coolant temperature is already too high, the computer will refuse to start the engine to save it from self-destruction.
The "Two Start" Rule
This catches a lot of people. You are only allowed two remote start events between ignition cycles. Each cycle lasts 10 minutes.
- Event 1: You remote start the truck. It runs for 10 minutes and shuts off.
- Event 2: You remote start it again (an "extension"). It runs for another 10 minutes.
After that second run, you must go out to the truck and physically turn the key in the ignition to reset the counter. You can't just keep remote starting it all day.
Mechanical Issues & Hardware
If you've gone through the digital checklist and everything looks fine, we might be looking at a hardware issue. It's rare on a 2015, but it happens.
Door Latches
Just like the hood latch, the truck needs to know all doors are closed. If you have a faulty door switch that says "Driver Door Open" on the dash, the remote start won't engage.
The BCM (Body Control Module)
This is the brain of the operation. Occasionally, the BCM gets confused. It controls the locks, lights, and security. If this computer is glitching, you might need a "hard reset."
How to do a Hard Reset:
Disconnect the negative terminal on your truck's main battery. Leave it off for about 15 to 20 minutes. This drains the capacitors in the modules and forces them to reboot when you reconnect the power. It's the automotive equivalent of "turn it off and back on again."
Do You Actually Have Remote Start? (The RPO Codes)
I know this sounds silly, but I have to ask. Did you buy the truck used? A lot of people get handed a key fob that has the "circle arrow" button on it, but the truck isn't actually equipped with the software.
In 2015, Chevy had two main codes regarding this:
- AP8: Remote Start Preparation Package. This means the truck has the hardware, but it wasn't turned on at the factory. You have to pay a dealer to "flash" the computer to enable it.
- AP3: Remote Vehicle Start. This means it is fully installed and active.
Where to look: Open your glove box (usually the bottom one). Look for a silver or white sticker with a bunch of three-digit codes on it. Scan through them. If you see AP8 but not AP3, and it's never worked since you bought it, you probably just have the "Prep" package. You'll need to visit a dealer to get it upgraded.
Advanced Troubleshooting: The "Check Engine" Paradox
Okay, back to the Check Engine Light for a second because this is where it gets tricky. I had a buddy with a '15 Silverado who swore his light was off, but the remote start wouldn't work.
It turned out to be a faulty Coolant Temperature Sensor. The sensor was sending erratic data. It wasn't bad enough to trigger a solid "Service Engine Soon" light immediately, but it was storing a "Pending" code in the background. The computer saw the erratic temp and said, "Nope, not starting remotely, I don't know if the engine is freezing or overheating."
This reinforces why getting a scanner on it is step number one. You can't always trust your eyes on the dashboard gauge cluster.
Aftermarket vs. OEM
If you are reading this and realizing your remote start is an aftermarket unit (like a Viper or Compustar) and not the factory Chevy one, the rules change.
Aftermarket systems usually have a "Valet Mode." If you accidentally pressed a combination of buttons on the remote (like lock + trunk at the same time), you might have put the system into Valet Mode. This disables remote start so a parking attendant doesn't accidentally trigger it. usually, the LED on the antenna on your windshield will be solid blue or red if this is the case. Toggle the switch or check the manual for your specific alarm brand to exit Valet Mode.
Summary of the Fix
So, lets recap the plan of attack to get your truck fixed:
- Scan for codes. Even if the light is off. Clear any codes you find.
- Check the Hood Latch. Make sure the dash doesn't say "Hood Open."
- Change the Fob Battery. Use a fresh CR2032.
- Verify Settings. Check the MyLink menu.
- Reset the Truck. Disconnect the negative battery cable for 15 mins.
Most of the time, it's that pesky Check Engine Light or a bad hood latch. These trucks are reliable, but the computer logic is very strict about safety. It's annoying when it's 10 degrees outside and your truck is cold, but technically, the truck is just trying to protect itself.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I bypass the Check Engine Light lockout?
A: Not really, and you shouldn't. The only way to "bypass" it is to use an OBDII scanner to clear the codes. This will trick the computer into thinking everything is fine for a short time, allowing you to remote start. But once the sensor detects the error again, the code will return and disable remote start again.
Q: My lights flash when I press the button, but it doesn't start. What does that mean?
A: If the parking lights flash once but the engine doesn't crank, it usually means the truck received the signal but rejected the request. This confirms your key fob is working, but a safety parameter (like the hood latch, CEL, or open door) is stopping the start.
Q: How long does the remote start run for on a 2015 Silverado?
A: It runs for 10 minutes. You can extend it once for another 10 minutes (total of 20), but after that, you have to use the key.
Q: Does low fuel disable remote start?
A: Yes. If the low fuel light is on, the remote start will not engage. This is to prevent the truck from sucking the tank dry while idling in your driveway.
Q: I replaced my key fob case, and now it won't work. Why?
A: Did you move the little electronic board *and* the battery contact? Sometimes when people swap cases, the battery doesn't sit quite right. Open it back up and make sure the metal prongs are actually touching the battery.