FIXED: 2011 silverado remote start not working

The Short Answer: Why It's Not Working

If your 2011 Chevy Silverado remote start isn't working, 90% of the time it is because your Check Engine Light is on or there is a stored code in the computer. GM programmed the truck to disable remote starting if it detects any engine fault to prevent the truck from damaging itself while running unattended. Fix the engine code, clear the light, and the remote start will come back.

If your dashboard is clear of lights, the next most likely culprit is a faulty hood latch sensor or a dead battery in your key fob. Below, I'm going to walk you through exactly how to troubleshoot this like we're hanging out in the driveway.

Detailed Troubleshooting Guide

I've owned a few GM trucks in my day and this issue is a total pain in the neck, especially when winter is rolling in. You press the lock button, hold the start button, the lights flash... and then nothing. Just silence. It's frustrating. But don't run to the dealer yet, because you can probably figure this out yourself.

1. The Check Engine Light (CEL)

I know I mentioned this already but I cant stress it enough. This is the safety logic General Motors uses. Basically, the truck's brain (ECU) says, "Hey, something isn't right with the engine. I shouldn't let this run without the driver sitting here to watch the gauges."

Even if the light isn't currently glowing on your dash, there might be a "pending code." This happens when the computer sees a glitch but it hasn't happened enough times to trigger the light yet.

The Fix: Go to an auto parts store like AutoZone or O'Reillys. They will scan your truck for free. If you see codes related to EVAP (like a loose gas cap) or O2 sensors, that is your problem. Once you fix that issue and clear the code, your remote start will work again immediately.

2. The Hood Latch Sensor (The "Open Hood" Glitch)

This is classic Silverado behavior. There is a safety switch located inside the hood latch mechanism near the radiator support. Its job is to ensure you don't remote start the truck while your mechanic has his hands inside the fan belt. Smart, right?

The problem is, these switches get gunked up with road salt, grease, and dirt. Eventually, the switch fails or gets stuck in the "Open" position. If the truck thinks the hood is up, it refuses to fire the engine.

How to test it: sits inside the truck and turn the key to the ON position (engine off). Look at your Driver Information Center (DIC) on the dash. Does it say "Hood Open"? If it says the hood is open but you know it's closed, you found the problem.

The Fix: You can try cleaning the latch with brake cleaner and re-greasing it. If that doesn't work, you can buy a replacement hood latch with the sensor built-in. It's usually about $40 to $60 and takes maybe 20 minutes to swap out with a 13mm socket.

3. The "AP8" vs "AP3" Confusion

Okay, this one catches a lot of people off guard. Just because your key fob has the little circle arrow button on it, doesn't mean your truck actually has the remote start software installed.

Open your glove box and look for a silver sticker with a bunch of three-digit codes on it. These are your RPO codes (Regular Production Options). You are looking for one of two codes:

• AP3: This means you have the Remote Vehicle Start system installed from the factory. You are good to go.
• AP8: This means "Remote Start Ready." The hardware is there, but the software is locked. You have to pay the dealer to "flash" the computer to unlock it.

If you bought the truck used, the previous owner might have bought a replacement key fob that has the start button, even if the truck (AP8) wasn't programmed for it. If you have AP8, pressing the buttons won't do anything until you visit a dealer.

4. Key Fob Issues

Sometimes the problem is literally in your hand. The 2011 era key fobs are known for having bad solder joints. Inside the plastic case, there is a battery clip that is soldered to the circuit board. If you drop your keys a lot, that solder can crack.

Also, check the battery. It takes a CR2032 battery. Even if the remote still unlocks the doors, the signal might be too weak to initiate the start sequence, which requires a longer, sustained signal.

The Fix: Pop the remote open with a dime. Check if the battery cage is wiggling loose. If it is, you can solder it back in place if you're handy. If not, you can buy a Dorman replacement fob and program it (though you might need a locksmith for the 2011 model year programming).

5. Door Switches and Hazards

The system runs a checklist before it starts. If any of these conditions aren't met, it aborts:

• All doors must be closed.
• The hazard lights must be OFF.
• The key must NOT be in the ignition.
• The vehicle must be in PARK.
• Oil pressure and coolant temperature must be normal.

If you have a broken door jamb switch (so the truck thinks a door is ajar), the remote start wont work. Usually, your interior dome lights staying on is a dead giveaway for this.

The Reset Procedure

Sometimes computers just get confused. Like when your WiFi router acts up and you have to unplug it. Your truck is kinda the same. If you've replaced the fob battery and checked the engine light and it still won't work, try a hard reset.

1. Pop the hood.
2. Disconnect the Negative (-) battery terminal. It's the black one.
3. Leave it disconnected for about 15 to 30 minutes. go grab a coffee.
4. Reconnect the battery.
5. Start the truck manually with the key to let the computer relearn its idle.
6. Turn it off, get out, lock the doors, and try the remote start again.

This clears out temporary memory buffers in the Body Control Module (BCM) and can sometimes fix glitchy behavior.

Understanding the "Blink Codes"

Your Silverado tries to talk to you through the parking lights. When you attempt to remote start, pay attention to the lights.

If lights flash but no crank: The truck received the signal but rejected the request. This usually points to a safety lockout (Check Engine Light, Hood Latch, or Hazard lights on).

If lights do not flash at all: The truck did not receive the signal. This points to a bad key fob, dead fob battery, or the receiver module in the truck is broken (the receiver is usually located in the passenger side C-pillar).

Coolant Temperature Sensor Issues

This is a bit more technical, but stick with me. The 2011 Silverado has a known issue with the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) and the thermostat. If the thermostat gets stuck open, the engine doesn't warm up fast enough. The computer throws a code (usually P0128).

Why does this matter? Because if the truck can't accurately read the engine temp, it disables remote start so it doesn't overheat or over-rev a cold engine. If your dashboard temperature gauge is acting weird-like staying at zero for too long-replace your thermostat and coolant sensor. It's cheap insurance and usually brings the remote start back to life.

Aftermarket vs. OEM

If you've gone through all this and your factory system is just dead-maybe the BCM is fried or the cost to fix it at the dealer is insane-you might want to look at aftermarket options.

The range on the factory 2011 remote is... honestly, it's pretty garbage. It's good for maybe 200 feet if you have a clear line of sight. Aftermarket systems like Viper or Compustar can work from a mile away. Plus, they bypass a lot of the finicky factory sensors (though they still respect safety checks).

If you install an aftermarket system, you will need a "bypass module" (like a Fortin or iDatalink) to talk to the truck's immobilizer. It sounds complicated, but Best Buy or a local car audio shop does this stuff daily.

Common "User Error" Scenarios

Look, I've done this. I'm not calling you dumb, but we all have brain farts. Make sure you are using the right sequence. On the 2011 GM trucks, the sequence is strictly:

1. Press LOCK.
2. Immediately press and HOLD the Start button (the circle arrow) for at least 4 seconds.

You have to see the signal lights flash. If you just tap the start button, nothing happens. If you wait too long after pressing Lock, nothing happens. It has to be a "1-2" punch.

Also, remember the "Two Start Limit." You can only remote start the truck twice in a row. Each cycle runs for 10 minutes. After two cycles (20 minutes total), the remote start is locked out until you physically insert the key and turn the ignition to "On/Run." This prevents you from accidentally starting the truck in your pocket and running it until the gas tank is empty.

Summary

So, to wrap this up. If your 2011 Silverado ignores your remote start commands, start with the Check Engine Light. If that's clear, check the hood latch. Those two things account for almost every failure I've seen on these trucks. It's usually a safety feature doing its job, not the remote start actually being "broken."

Fix the code, grease the latch, and you should be back to a warm truck in the mornings. Good luck!

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Frequently Asked Questions

Can I disable the feature that stops remote start when the Check Engine Light is on?

Generally, no. This is hard-coded into the ECU for safety. You would need a custom tuner (like HP Tuners) to go into the truck's operating system and hack that parameter out, but that is advanced stuff and voids warranties if you still have one.

My remote start works, but the AC/Heater doesn't turn on. Why?

On the 2011 models, the "automatic" climate control during remote start depends on your trim level (LTZ vs LT). If you have manual climate knobs, the truck will simply blow whatever setting you left it on when you got out. If you left the fan OFF, it will stay OFF during remote start. Leave your heater cranking when you park the night before!

How do I know if my key fob battery is low?

The Driver Information Center (DIC) on your dash might display "REPLACE BATTERY IN REMOTE KEY," but this isn't always accurate. The best sign is if the range decreases drastically-like you have to be standing right next to the truck for it to unlock.

Can I extend the run time longer than 10 minutes?

Yes, but you have to catch it while it's running. If you perform the start sequence again (Lock + Start button) while the truck is already remote started, it adds 10 minutes to the current time. It doesn't start a fresh 20 minutes; it just extends the remaining time by 10.

Does a TPMS (Tire Pressure) light disable remote start?

No. According to the owner's manual, a Tire Pressure light should not prevent the truck from remote starting. Only engine/powertrain related codes usually trigger the lockout.