If your Dodge Charger remote start isn't working, check your dashboard for a Check Engine Light first.
That is the short answer. If that orange engine light is on, the remote start system disables itself automatically to prevent damaging the engine. If there's no check engine light, the most likely culprits are a broken hood latch sensor, a door that isn't closed all the way, or your fuel level is too low (usually under a quarter tank).
I know how frustrating it is. You walk out to your Charger in the morning, coffee in hand, expecting it to be warmed up and growling, but instead, it's sitting there cold and silent. I've been there with my own Mopar vehicles. It ruins the vibe of the whole morning.
The good news is that 90% of the time, this isn't a "broken" car issue, it's a safety feature doing exactly what it was programmed to do. Let's figure out which one it is so you can get back on the road.
Key Takeaways: Why It Won't Start
- Check Engine Light (CEL): Any active fault code will disable remote start immediately.
- The Hood Latch Switch: This is a known weak point on Chargers. If the sensor gets dirty or breaks, the car thinks the hood is open and won't start.
- Low Fuel: If the gas light is on (or you are very low), the car saves fuel by refusing to idle.
- Doors/Trunk Ajar: Even if it looks closed, one sensor might be tripping.
- Key Fob Battery: A weak battery in your remote might transmit the "lock" signal but fail on the "start" signal.
The "Safety Logic": Why Dodge Does This
Before we start ripping things apart, you gotta understand how the Charger thinks. According to the Dodge owner's manual, the remote start system is designed to be overly cautious. It's not just a convenience feature; it's tied into the security and safety systems.
Think about it. If you remote started your car while it was in a closed garage and it ran for 15 minutes, that’s dangerous (carbon monoxide). If you started it while a mechanic had his hands near the fan belt, that's a lawsuit waiting to happen. So, the car computer (the PCM) runs a checklist every time you double-click that button. If even one item on the list fails, it aborts the start.
Here is the detailed breakdown of what goes wrong and how to fix it.
1. The Check Engine Light (The Usual Suspect)
This is honestly the most common reason I see. You might not even notice the light is on if you haven't driven the car in a day or two.
When the Check Engine Light (CEL) is illuminated, the car goes into a sort of "defensive mode." Remote starting requires the engine to idle without a driver present to monitor gauges. If the computer senses something is wrong-even something minor like a loose gas cap causing an EVAP leak-it won't take the risk.
How to fix it:
- Start the car manually with the push-button inside. Look at the dash. Is the yellow engine outline lit up?
- If yes, you need to read the codes. You can go to an auto parts store like AutoZone or O'Reillys, and they will scan it for free.
- Once you fix the issue and clear the code, your remote start should work again immediately.
2. The Hood Latch Sensor (The "Charger Special")
If there is no Check Engine Light, this is my next best guess. The Dodge Charger (and the Challenger) has a sensor inside the hood latch mechanism. Its job is to tell the car if the hood is open or closed.
The system is designed so that if the hood is open, remote start is disabled to protect anyone working under the hood. However, this switch is notorious for getting dirty, corroded, or just failing. When it fails, it usually fails in the "Open" position.
The Symptoms:
- You press the remote start button twice.
- The car honks once or the lights flash, but the engine doesn't crank.
- Sometimes, the alarm might go off randomly at night because the car thinks someone popped the hood.
How to fix it:
You can try cleaning it first. Pop the hood and locate the latch in the center. Get some electrical contact cleaner or even WD-40 and spray it into the latch mechanism where the electrical connector plugs in. Open and close the hood a few times firmly.
If that doesn't work you might have to replace the latch. It’s actually pretty cheap and you can do it yourself with basic tools.
3. Low Fuel Level
This one catches people off guard. The computer is smart enough to know that if you remote start the car with an empty tank, you might run it dry before you even get in. That would be bad for the fuel pump (which needs gas to stay cool) and annoying for you.
Usually, if the "Low Fuel" warning light is on, remote start is disabled. Some drivers report that once it drops below 1/4 tank, the system gets finicky, though the manual usually states it just needs to not be in a "Low Fuel" state.
The Fix: Go to the gas station. Fill it up. Try again.
4. Door, Trunk, or Hazard Lights
The system requires the vehicle to be completely sealed and secure. This checks three things:
- Doors: Are all doors closed? If a door pin switch is broken and thinks the rear passenger door is open, the car wont start.
- Trunk: Same goes for the trunk. If you have gym bags stuffed in there pushing up against the lid, it might not be latched fully.
- Hazards: If your hazard lights (flashers) are on, remote start is disabled.
Check your dashboard display (the EVIC center screen). usually, it will tell you exactly which door is "Ajar." If it says a door is open but you know it's closed, slam it harder. If that doesn't work, you might have a bad door sensor.
5. The Key Fob Itself
Sometimes the problem isn't the car, it's the thing in your hand. The remote start sequence for a Charger is usually pressing the button twice within 3 seconds (x2).
If your battery is getting weak, it might have enough power to send the first signal but fail on the second one, or the timing gets messed up. Also, look at the physical button. The rubber pads on these fobs wear out over time. You might be clicking it, but the circuit board isn't feeling it.
Pro Tip: Do the door locks work from a long distance? If you have to be standing right next to the car to unlock it, your fob battery is definitely dying. Replace it with a CR2032 battery (usually). They cost like five bucks at the grocery store.
6. Valet Mode
Did you or someone else put the car in Valet Mode? This is more common on higher trim levels like the SRT or Scat Pack. Valet mode limits the engine power and disables certain features to prevent parking attendants from joyriding in your car.
Depending on the year of your Charger, Valet mode might disable the remote start function. You'll need to go into the Uconnect settings on your dashboard screen and enter your PIN to disable Valet mode.
7. Gear Selector Issue
The car must be in PARK for remote start to work. I know, you're thinking, "Obviously I put it in Park." But sometimes the shift linkage gets a little loose, or a sensor gets dirty.
The car might physically be holding still, but the sensor thinks it is in Reverse or Neutral. If the "P" on your dash isn't highlighted or if the car struggles to detect what gear it's in, the remote start will be blocked for safety.
Understanding the "Start Aborted" Message
If you have a newer Charger (roughly 2011 and up), you have a distinct advantage. The Driver Information Digital Cluster (the screen between your speedometer and tachometer) will usually tell you why it failed.
Sit in the car. Close the door. Use the key fob to try and remote start it while you are watching the dashboard. You might see a message pop up for just a few seconds:
- "Remote Start Aborted - Hood Ajar" (There's your answer: hood latch).
- "Remote Start Aborted - Door Ajar" (Check your doors).
- "Remote Start Aborted - Fuel Low" (Get gas).
- "Remote Start Aborted - System Fault" (This is usually a Check Engine Light code).
- "Remote Start Disabled - Start Vehicle to Reset" (This happens if you’ve used remote start too many times in a row without driving).
Wait, let me explain that last one. Dodge has a limit. You can usually only remote start the car two times in a row. Each time runs for about 15 minutes. After two cycles, the car says "Okay, clearly you aren't coming," and disables the feature until you physically get in and push the Start button on the dash.
Advanced Troubleshooting: The RF Hub
If you have checked the engine light, the hood latch, the gas, and the battery, and it still doesn't work, we are entering "annoying territory."
The Dodge Charger uses something called an RF Hub (Radio Frequency Hub). This is the brain that listens for your key fob signals. It’s located in the rear of the car, usually behind the back seat or under the rear deck.
Sometimes, this hub locks up or glitches out. It's like when your WiFi router stops working and needs a reboot.
How to Reset the System (The "Hard Reset"):
You can try to reset the computer modules by disconnecting the car battery.
- Open the trunk. Lift the floor panel. (Charger batteries are in the back).
- Use a 10mm socket wrench to disconnect the Negative (Black) cable.
- Move the cable away from the post so it doesn't touch.
- Wait about 15 to 30 minutes. This drains the residual power from the capacitors in the modules.
- Reconnect the black cable and tighten it.
This forces the RF Hub and the PCM to reboot. Warning: You might lose your radio presets and your clock settings, but it often fixes weird electrical glitches.
When to Call the Pros
Look, I'm all for DIY fixes. I hate paying dealership labor rates ($150 an hour? Come on). But there are times when you need a fancy computer to talk to your car.
If you have replaced the fob battery, verified the hood latch is good, have no check engine lights, and did the battery reset, and it still won't work... it might be a software update issue.
There have been Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) in the past for Dodge Chargers regarding the RF Hub and Keyless Entry systems. Sometimes the software gets corrupted or needs a patch from the manufacturer. In this case, you have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer or a shop that has a "WiTech" scanner (the official Chrysler tool).
Summary Check-List
Before you give up, run through this list one last time inside your head:
- Is the Check Engine Light on? (Fix that first).
- Is the hood closed tight? (Check that sensor).
- Is the gas light on?
- Are the hazard lights off?
- Is the car in Park?
- Is the key fob battery fresh?
- Have you already remote started it twice without driving?
Most of the time, it's the hood latch or the engine light. It's rarely a catastrophic failure of the starter motor itself. If the car starts fine with the push-button inside, the starter motor is fine. The issue is the permission to start.
Hopefully, this saves you a trip to the mechanic. There is nothing better than hearing that Hemi (or Pentastar) fire up from across the parking lot, so good luck getting it sorted!
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I add remote start to a Charger that didn't come with it?
Yes, you absolutely can. You have two main options. You can buy an OEM kit from Mopar (which includes new keys and a new hood latch with the sensor) and have the dealer program it. This is the "cleanest" way because it works like factory. Or, you can get an aftermarket system like Viper or Compustar. Aftermarket systems often have better range (up to a mile), but you have to carry an extra fob or use an app on your phone.
Does remote start turn on the AC or Heater automatically?
Yes! Dodge has a feature called "Comfort Start" or "Auto-On Comfort." Depending on the outside temperature, the car will automatically turn on the heated seats and heated steering wheel (if it's cold) or the A/C and ventilated seats (if it's hot). You can usually toggle this setting On or Off in the Uconnect touchscreen menu under "Settings" > "Auto-On Comfort."
Why does my car shut off when I open the door?
This is actually a security feature on some aftermarket systems, but on a factory Dodge Charger system, the engine should stay running when you open the door. However, the engine will shut off if you press the brake pedal before pressing the "Start" button on the dash. You need to get in, leave your foot off the brake, press the Start button to "take over," and then you can drive away.
How long will the remote start run for?
On a factory Dodge Charger setting, the remote start runs for 15 minutes. You can extend it by pressing the remote start button twice again while it is running, which adds another 15 minutes to the timer. After that total time runs out, the engine shuts off to save gas.
Will a "Stored" code stop remote start?
Sometimes, yes. Even if the light isn't currently on, if there is a "Pending" code in the computer's memory that hasn't cleared itself yet, the system might block the remote start. This is why using an OBDII scanner is the best way to be sure. Clear all codes (stored and active) to test the system.