Key Takeaways
- Check the Subscription: For 2018+ models, your free trial of "Remote Connect" might have ended. Without it, the key fob remote start won't work on stock units.
- The Battery: Swap out the CR2032 battery in your fob. Weak signal = no start.
- Safety Overrides: If your hood is unlatched, doors are unlocked, or the Check Engine Light is on, the truck will refuse to start.
- The Rhythm: You need to press Lock, Lock, and then Hold Lock for 3 seconds. If the timing is off, it fails.
- Engine Cut-off: It is normal for the Tacoma to shut off when you open the door. This isn't a glitch, it's a Toyota safety "feature."
If your Tacoma remote start isn't working, the problem is almost certainly an expired Remote Connect subscription or a dead key fob battery. If you drive a 2018 or newer Tacoma, Toyota requires an active subscription for the key fob remote start to function, which catches a lot of people off guard when the free trial runs out. If your subscription is fine, verify that your hood is fully latched and you don't have a Check Engine Light on.
I know how frustrating it is. You walk out to your truck on a freezing morning, press the buttons, and... nothing. Just a cold seat waiting for you. I've been there with my own truck. Its usually something small, but Toyota doesn't exactly make it easy to figure out. Let's walk through exactly how to fix this so you can get your cabin heated up (or cooled down) before you get in.
The "Subscription" Problem (Most Likely Culprit)
Okay, lets address the elephant in the room first. This is the one that makes everyone mad, and honestly, I get it.
A few years ago, it came out that Toyota tied the physical key fob remote start capability to their digital "Remote Connect" subscription. Basically, even though the remote start signal comes from your key, the software in the truck looks for an active subscription status to allow it to happen.
Does this apply to you?
If you own a Tacoma from 2018 to present, specifically with the Audio Plus or Premium Audio packages, this is likely your issue. When you bought the truck, you probably got a free trial. For some people, it was 3 years; for others, it was shorter.
Once that trial expires, the key fob functionality (pressing Lock-Lock-Hold) stops working unless you pay for the renewal. According to reports from major car blogs like The Drive, Toyota has gone back and forth on how they communicate this, but for many owners, the fix is simply renewing the service in the Toyota App. Its about $8 or $80 a year, give or take.
Fix: Open your Toyota App on your phone. Check your subscription status. If "Remote Connect" is inactive or expired, that is why your truck won't start.
The Key Fob Battery and "The Rhythm"
If you know your subscription is good (or if you have an aftermarket starter that doesn't need one), the next place to look is the physical fob in your hand.
Weak Battery
Even if your key still unlocks the doors, the battery might be too weak to send the continuous "Hold" signal needed for remote start. The remote start sequence requires a stronger, sustained signal than just popping the door lock. If you haven't changed that battery in 2 or 3 years, do it now. It's a CR2032 battery. You can get a two-pack at the grocery store for like five bucks.
How to change it:
- Pull the mechanical key out of the fob.
- Stick the tip of the key (or a flathead screwdriver) into the slot and twist to pop the case open.
- Swap the battery.
- Snap it back together.
You might have lost the rhythm
I feel kinda silly saying this, but sometimes we just mess up the clicking. The Toyota sequence is very specific. If you do it too fast or too slow, the truck ignores you.
The Correct Sequence:
- Press LOCK (wait about 1 second).
- Press LOCK again (wait about 1 second).
- Press and HOLD LOCK for 3 full seconds.
Watch the turn signal lights on the truck. They should flash with each press. On the third press (the hold), the lights should flash and then stay on or cycle, indicating the truck received the command. If you mash the buttons too fast, the computer thinks you are just double-checking that the doors are locked.
Safety Lockouts (The Truck is Protecting Itself)
The Tacoma ECU (the computer brain) is programmed to prevent remote starting if it detects anything unsafe. If your remote start isn't working, the truck might think it's in a compromised state. Check these things immediately.
1. The Hood Latch Sensor
This is a super common issue on Tacomas. There is a sensor under the hood that tells the truck if the hood is popped. If the truck thinks the hood is open, it will never remote start. This is to prevent the engine from starting while a mechanic has their hands near the fan belt.
Sometimes, this sensor gets dirty, bent, or disconnected. Or, you just didn't slam the hood hard enough last time you checked the oil. Go out, pop the hood, and slam it shut firmly. Try the remote start again.
2. Check Engine Light (CEL)
If your dashboard has a "Check Engine" light on-even for something minor like a loose gas cap-the remote start is disabled. The computer logic is: "Something is wrong with the engine, so I am not going to let it run without a human in the driver's seat monitoring it."
You can go to an auto parts store and have them scan the code for free. If you clear the code (and fix the problem), your remote start should come back to life instantly.
3. Door and Window Status
Are all the doors actually closed? If one door is slightly ajar, the system won't engage. Also, on some newer firmware updates, having the windows down or the sunroof open can sometimes interfere, though that's less common. Just make sure the truck is buttoned up tight.
4. Low Fuel Warning
If your gas light is on, the remote start usually wont work. The truck knows it's low on fuel and doesn't want to waste the last gallon idling in your driveway. Its actually a pretty smart feature, even if it is annoying.
Aftermarket Remote Starters (N2 Designs, Start-X, etc.)
A lot of us Tacoma owners skip the dealership stuff and install aftermarket kits. N2 Designs is probably the most popular one in the forums. If you have one of these and it stopped working, the troubleshooting is a little different.
The "Valet Mode" Issue
Many aftermarket systems have a "Valet Mode" that disables the remote start so a parking attendant doesn't accidentally trigger it. Usually, you toggle this by pressing the lock/unlock buttons in a specific weird pattern (like Lock + Trunk + Lock). Check your specific manual to see if you accidentally put it in Valet Mode. It happens more often than you think usually when the keys are in your pocket and buttons get mashed.
Lost Programming
If you recently changed your truck battery or the battery died completely, the aftermarket module might have lost its "handshake" with the truck. You might need to re-pair it. Usually, this involves unplugging the module, plugging it back in while holding a button, and turning the ignition on. Again, check the manual for your specific brand.
Resetting the System
If you have checked the subscription, changed the fob battery, and ensured there are no check engine lights, you might just have a computer glitch. These trucks are basically big computers on wheels now, and sometimes they need a reboot.
The Hard Reset:
- Pop the hood.
- Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the Negative (-) battery terminal.
- Leave it disconnected for about 15 to 30 minutes. This drains the capacitors in the ECU.
- Reconnect the cable and tighten it down.
This resets the infotainment system and the body control modules. It can clear out temporary glitches that are blocking the remote start signal. Just remember, you'll lose your radio presets and maybe your clock settings, but its worth it if it fixes the start issue.
Why does the engine shut off when I open the door?
Okay, this isn't technically "remote start not working," but I have to mention it because everyone asks. You remote start the truck, it warms up, you walk out, grab the handle, and... the engine dies. You have to get in and restart it.
This is not a broken feature. It is exactly how Toyota designed it. It is an anti-theft measure. Toyota (and Lexus) decided that if the doors unlock while the remote starter is running, the engine must cut to prevent someone from jumping in and driving off while the key is still in your pocket outside.
Is it annoying? Absolutely. Does it defeat the purpose of "Get in and Go"? Kind of. But there is no factory way to disable this. Some aftermarket kits (like the N2 Designs I mentioned earlier) can bypass this on some models, specifically the ones with a standard key ignition (H-Key). But if you have the Push-to-Start button, you are stuck with the shut-off feature. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
Summary of the Troubleshooting Checklist
Before you go spend $150 at the dealership for a "diagnostic fee," run through this list one last time. I'd bet good money your problem is in the top three.
- Is your Remote Connect subscription active? (Check the app).
- Is the Check Engine Light on? (Fix the engine issue first).
- Is the Hood Latch secure? (Open and slam it).
- Is the Fob Battery fresh? (Change the CR2032).
- Is the transmission in Park? (Wiggle the shifter to make sure).
- Is the foot brake depressed? (Wait, actually, don't press the brake while remote starting, only when pushing the button inside).
Most of the time, this tech is pretty reliable. When it fails, its usually a safety sensor doing its job or that pesky subscription model getting in the way. Hopefully, this gets your Tacoma rumbling again so you don't have to freeze your fingers off on the steering wheel tomorrow morning!
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Do I really have to pay a subscription to use my key fob remote start?
On most 2018 and newer Tacomas with Audio Plus or Premium Audio, yes. The key fob signal is tied to the software authorization of the Remote Connect service. However, some base models or specific configurations might not have this limitation, but its the general rule for the higher trims.
2. Can I install remote start on a Tacoma that didn't come with it?
Yes, absolutely. The Toyota Tacoma is one of the easiest trucks to add this to. You can buy "Plug and Play" kits that connect right behind the glove box. They usually use your existing factory key fob (Lock-Lock-Hold) and don't require any wire cutting.
3. How long will the Tacoma run on remote start before shutting off?
It runs for 10 minutes. If you don't get to the truck by then, it shuts off automatically to save gas. You can usually remote start it one more time for another 10 minutes, but after two cycles, you have to manually start the truck.
4. Will remote start turn on my heater or AC?
Generally, yes, but it usually just blasts whatever settings you left it on when you turned the truck off. So, if you know it's going to be cold in the morning, crank the heat up before you get out of the truck the night before.
5. Why do the lights flash but the truck doesn't start?
If the lights flash but no start happens, the truck received the signal but rejected it. This is almost 100% a safety lockout issue. Check the hood latch, make sure all doors are closed, and ensure you have enough gas.