FIXED: viper remote start not working

The Most Common Culprit: You're Probably in Valet Mode

I cannot tell you how many times friends have called me panicking because their expensive Viper system "died," only to find out they accidentally put it in Valet Mode. Before you go ripping apart your dashboard or buying a new remote, look at the antenna (usually stuck to your windshield behind the rearview mirror).

Is the little LED light staying on solid? If it is, the system is in Valet Mode. This mode disables the remote start feature so a mechanic or valet driver can't accidentally start your car while working on it.

How to fix it:

1. Get in the car and close the door.
2. Insert your key and turn it to the "ON" position (don't crank the engine, just power up the dash).
3. Turn the key back to "OFF".
4. Within 10 seconds, press and release the Valet button once. This button is usually hidden under the dash near your knees, or sometimes built into the antenna itself.
5. If you did it right, the LED should turn off. Try your remote start now.

If you don't have a Valet button or can't find it, check your specific owner's manual because different models (like the Viper DS4 vs older Responder LE models) have slightly different exit procedures. But honestly, 50% of the time, this is the fix.

It's Usually Just the Battery (Even if the Fob Lights Up)

Here is a tricky thing about electronics. Your key fob key might still have enough juice to flash the little LED indicator on the remote or unlock the doors, but not enough "umph" to send the long-range remote start signal. The start signal takes way more power than the lock signal.

If you haven't changed the battery in over a year, just do it. Its a cheap fix. Most Viper remotes use CR2032 or CR2016 coin batteries. You can grab these at any drugstore. Pop the case open carefully with a coin or a small flathead screwdriver. Be gentle with the plastic clips; they break easier than you'd think.

Once the new battery is in, try standing closer to the vehicle. If it works close up but not far away, it was definitely a power issue or potential antenna interference.

The Hood Pin Switch: The "Plunger" Problem

This is probably the most annoying mechanical failure point. Your remote start system has a safety feature that prevents the engine from starting if the hood is open. This is so you don't remote start the car while a mechanic has his hands in the engine belt. That would be bad.

To detect this, there is a "hood pin switch." It looks like a little plunger, usually located along the metal lip of the engine bay. When the hood closes, it pushes the plunger down.

The problem? Engine bays get dirty, wet, and salty. These switches get corroded really fast. If the switch rusts or the metal bracket bends, the sensor might think the hood is OPEN even when it's closed. If the system thinks the hood is open, it will refuse to start.

How to test it:

• Locate the switch.
• Press it down with your finger.
• While holding it down, have a friend press the remote start button.
• If the car starts while you are holding the pin down, you know the switch is either broken, corroded, or just not aligned with the hood properly.

You can usually clean the rust off with some sandpaper or bend the bracket up slightly so the hood hits it harder.

Count the Flashes ( The Car is Trying to Talk to You)

Viper systems are actually pretty smart. When the remote start fails, the parking lights on your car usually flash a specific number of times to tell you why it failed. It's like Morse code for cars.

Try to remote start it, and watch the parking lights closely. Here is the general breakdown for most Directed Electronics (Viper) systems:

• 5 Flashes: Brake pedal is pressed. (Maybe your brake switch is stuck on?)
• 6 Flashes: Hood pin is active. (See the section above!)
• 7 Flashes: Manual transmission mode error. (If you have a stick shift, the setup sequence wasn't done right).
• 8 Flashes: Neutral safety wire. (The car doesn't know if it's in park).

If you get 7 flashes and you have an automatic transmission, that means the timer mode might be messed up, or a sensor is drifting. But usually, counting the flashes is the quickest way to sound like a pro when you eventually have to call tech support.

The "Check Engine" Light Issue

If you drive a newer car (basically anything made after 2010), your Viper system is likely connected to the car's computer via a digital interface module (like a DB3 or DBALL2). These modules are smart.

If your car has a Check Engine Light (CEL) on the dashboard, the remote start module might see that error code and disable the remote start as a safety precaution. It doesn't want to start an engine that is already reporting a failure.

If your dash is lit up like a Christmas tree, fix the car issues first. Once the engine codes are cleared, the Viper system should go back to normal.

Did You Lose Programming?

Sometimes, usually if your car battery died recently or was disconnected for a repair, the Viper "brain" (the main control unit under the dash) can lose its memory of the remote. It basically forgets who its friends are.

Reprogramming a remote isn't too hard, but it varies wildly by model. Generally, it involves:

1. Opening a door.
2. Turning the ignition on.
3. Pressing the Valet button a specific number of times (usually once, then press and hold).
4. Pressing the lock button on the remote.

However, dont just guess at this. You need to look up the "Pairing Guide" for your specific model number (like Viper 5706V or 4105V). You can find these on the Viper website or just Google your model number + "program remote".

Range Issues and "Antenna" Placement

If the remote start works, but only when you are standing right next to the driver's window, your antenna or the cable running to it might be damaged. The antenna cable is usually tucked into the headliner and runs down the "A-pillar" (the metal post between the windshield and the side window).

If you recently had your windshield replaced or had new window tint installed, the installers might have nicked the cable or unplugged it. Metallic window tint can also block the signal significantly. If you just got fancy new tint and now your remote sucks, thats probably why.

Cold Weather and "Tach" Signals

This one is a bit technical, but bear with me. To run the remote start, the Viper system needs to know that the engine is actually running. It does this by monitoring the RPMs, also known as the "Tachometer Signal" or "Tach."

In extremely cold weather, engines crank slower and fluids are thicker. Sometimes, the engine RPMs act differently on a cold start than they do when it's warm. If the Viper system doesn't see the exact RPM signal it "learned" when it was installed, it might shut the engine down immediately after starting it because it thinks the start failed.

If your car starts for 2 seconds and then shuts off, this is a Tach Issue. You may need to "Re-learn the Tach." Usually, you can do this by starting the car with the key, letting it settle to a normal idle, and holding the Valet button until the LED lights up solid. Again, check your specific manual, but this fixes the "start-then-die" problem 9 times out of 10.

Is Your Switch On? (For older units)

Some older Viper units actually have a physical toggle switch installed somewhere under the dash to completely kill the remote start system. This was common in the early 2000s models. It was used so mechanics could flip a switch to disable the system.

Take a look under your dashboard near the hood release. Do you see a small silver or black toggle switch? Flip it. You might have kicked it with your foot by accident.

When to Call a Professional

Look, I love DIY fixes, but remote starters involve complex wiring into your ignition, fuel pump, and immobilizer systems. If you have checked the Valet mode, changed the battery, and checked the hood pin, and it still wont work, it might be a fried module or a loose ground wire deep in the dash.

If you smell burning plastic, or if your factory alarm starts going off randomly, stop messing with it. Pull the fuse on the Viper system (usually located on the thick red power wire near the battery or under the dash) and take it to a certified installer. Best Buy (Geek Squad) or local car audio shops deal with this stuff every day.

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Frequently Asked Questions

My remote start clicks but the engine doesn't turn over. What is that?

This is usually a battery voltage issue (car battery, not remote) or a bad connection to the starter wire. If you hear the Viper module click, the brain is working, but it's not sending enough juice to the starter. Check your car battery terminals for corrosion.

The parking lights flash but nothing happens.

Count the flashes! As mentioned above, the number of flashes is an error code. 7 flashes usually means "Timer Mode" or a lockout, and 6 flashes usually points to the hood pin switch.

How do I reset my Viper remote start?

There isn't a universal "Master Reset" button because that would be a security risk for thieves. However, you can power cycle the unit by unplugging the main harness from the "brain" box under the dash for 5 minutes and plugging it back in. This clears temporary glitches but won't erase your remote pairing.

Can I disable the system if it's acting crazy?

Yes. Put the system in Valet Mode (Turn Ignition On, Off, press Valet button once). This keeps the alarm and keyless entry working but kills the remote start function until you can get it fixed.

Why does my remote start turn off after 10 minutes?

That is actually normal! Most systems are programmed with a "Runtime" (usually 12 or 24 minutes) to prevent the car from idling until it runs out of gas if you forget about it. You can usually extend this time by pressing the start button again while it's running.