Why Does My Remote Car Starter Not Work

If you are standing in the freezing cold pressing a button and nothing is happening, the most likely reason your remote car starter isn't working is a dead battery in the fob, the system is in "Valet Mode," or a safety sensor (like the hood pin) is triggered. It sucks, I know. But usually, the fix is something you can do yourself in the driveway without paying a mechanic.

Let's look at exactly why this happens and how to fix it, so you can get your car warm again.

1. The Key Fob Battery is Dead or Dying

I know this sounds obvious but it's the number one reason remote starters fail. Even if the light on the remote still blinks, it might not have enough "juice" to send the signal all the way to the car. Think of it like a flashlight that's going dim; it's still on, but it's not doing its job very well.

Remote start fobs use a lot more power than a standard keyless entry fob because they have to transmit a signal over a much longer distance. If you have a 2-way remote (the kind that beeps back to tell you the car started), those batteries die even faster.

How to troubleshoot it:

Get a fresh CR2032 battery (or whatever size yours takes) and swap it out. Don't rely on the LED light on the fob as proof that the battery is good. I've seen plenty of remotes that light up but fail to transmit. Also, if you have a spare remote, try that one. If the spare works, you know the problem is just the main remote and not the car itself.

2. Your Car is in "Valet Mode"

This happens all the time by accident. Valet Mode is a safety feature designed to disable the remote start system so that a mechanic or valet driver doesn't accidentally start the engine while they are working on it or parking it. It's strictly a safety thing.

Usually, you can tell your in Valet Mode if you try to remote start the car and the parking lights flash a specific code (often they flash 2 or 3 times quickly) but the engine doesn't crank. Some systems also make a specific clicking sound from under the dashboard.

How to fix Valet Mode:

Every system is a little different, but here are the common ways to turn it off:

• The "2+1" Method: Turn the ignition key to the "Run" position (don't start the engine), then tap the brake pedal, and then press the remote start button.
• The Switch: Look under your dashboard near the driver's kick panel. There might be a small toggle switch. Flip it the other way.
• Button Combo: According to Viper (a big manufacturer of these systems), some remotes require you to press the "Lock" and "Trunk" buttons simultaneously to exit Valet Mode.

You might need to Google your specific brand of starter (like Viper, Compustar, or the factory OEM one) plus "exit valet mode" to get the exact sequence.

3. The Hood Pin Switch is Broken or Corroded

This is a safety feature that most people don't even know exists. There is a sensor under your hood (called a hood pin) that tells the car if the hood is open. If the system thinks the hood is up, it will absolutely refuse to start the engine. This is so that if a mechanic is leaning over the engine checking the oil, the car doesn't start automatically and injure them.

The problem is, these switches are exposed to the elements. They get wet, salty, and rusty. Eventually, the switch corrodes and breaks, or it gets bent down so it doesn't make contact when the hood closes. If the switch is broken, the car thinks the hood is open 24/7.

What to look for:

Pop the hood and look along the edges of the engine bay. You are looking for a small plunger switch sticking up. Check if it's rusty or if the wire connected to the bottom of it has fallen off. If it looks nasty, wiggle it around or clean it with some sandpaper. If you press it down with your finger and have a friend try the remote start (stand back safely!), and it works, then you know the switch just needs to be adjusted or replaced. Its a cheap part, usually under $10 at an auto parts store.

4. The "Check Engine" Light is On

If you have a modern car (pretty much anything made after 2010) with a factory-installed remote starter, the computer is smart. If it detects a problem with the engine-meaning your "Check Engine" light is on-it will disable the remote start feature.

The car does this to protect itself. If there is an oil pressure issue or a misfire, the car doesn't want to run without a driver present to notice the weird noises or smells. According to most owner's manuals, this is a standard lockout feature.

The Fix: You have to clear the check engine light. This might mean fixing an oxygen sensor or just tightening your gas cap (a loose gas cap is a super common reason for that light). Once the light is off, the remote start should work again.

5. Your Car Battery Voltage is Too Low

Remote starters are very sensitive to voltage. Even if your car battery has enough power to start the car when you turn the key, it might not have enough stable voltage for the remote starter brain to feel confident.

When you use a key, you override the computer's hesitation. But the remote starter monitors the voltage drop. If the battery drops below a certain voltage (usually around 11 volts) when it tries to crank, the system will abort the start to prevent the battery from dying completely. It's basically saving enough power so you can unlock the doors.

If it's really cold outside-like below zero-this is very common. Batteries loose alot of their power in freezing temps. If your battery is more than 3 or 4 years old, have it tested. Replacing the car battery usually solves this.

6. The Brake Pedal Switch

Just like the hood pin, there is a safety wire connected to your brake pedal. The remote starter is programmed to shut off the engine if someone steps on the brake pedal without the key in the ignition. This is to stop someone from smashing your window, hopping in, and driving away with your car while it's warming up.

If the brake light switch is faulty or if the fuse for your brake lights is blown, the remote starter might get confused. It might think the brake is being pressed even when it isn't. If you try to remote start and the parking lights flash but nothing happens, check if your brake lights are working correctly when you drive.

7. Coolant Temperature Sensors (Cold Weather Mode)

This is a weird one, but it happens. Some cars have sensors that prevent the engine from remote starting if the car is already warm, or conversely, if the car is dangerously cold and the oil is too thick (though that's rare). However, some diesel trucks have a "delay to start" for the glow plugs.

If you have a diesel truck and the remote start isn't waiting for the glow plug light to go out, it will try to crank and fail. You might need to have the unit reprogrammed to wait longer (like 15 or 20 seconds) before cranking.

8. You've Exceeded the Maximum Attempts

Did you know most systems have a limit? Usually, you can only remote start the car two times in a row. After the second time, the system locks out. This is to prevent you from accidentally keeping the car running for hours and running out of gas or filling your garage with carbon monoxide.

If you have started it twice already, you must go out to the car, insert the key, and turn the ignition to "On" to reset the counter. Once you do that manual cycle, the remote start should work again.

9. Door Locks and Factory Alarms

If your car doors are unlocked, many factory systems will not remote start. It's a security thing. The computer wants the car secure before it fires up the engine. Try pressing the "Lock" button on your fob twice before you press the start button. I've seen this happen on a lot of Fords and Toyotas.

Also, if your car alarm was triggered recently, the system might be in a lockout mode until you reset it with the key.

10. The Oil Pressure Switch

After the remote starter cranks the engine, it looks for a signal to know that the car is actually running. It usually looks at the tachometer (RPMs) or the oil pressure.

If your car has an oil leak or low oil pressure, the remote starter might start the car, see that the oil pressure is low, and immediately shut it down to save the engine. If your car starts for 2 seconds and then turns off, check your oil level immediately.

Steps to Diagnose the Problem Yourself

Okay, so you read the list above. Now, how do you actually figure out which one is the problem without spending money? Follow this flow:

Step 1: The Visual Check.
Lock the doors. Press the start button. Watch the parking lights. Do they flash? Count the flashes. Check your user manual (or Google the model number on the back of your remote). Usually, 7 flashes means "Timer Mode," 3 flashes might mean "Low Voltage," etc. The car is literally trying to tell you what is wrong.

Step 2: The "Key" Test.
Go sit in the car. Put the key in the ignition (or have the fob inside) and start the car normally. Does it start strong? Or does it sound like it's struggling? If it struggles, it's your car battery. If the Check Engine light stays on, that's your problem.

Step 3: The "Ready" Mode Test.
Turn the car off. sit inside. Lock the doors with the remote. Wait 10 seconds. Try to remote start it while sitting in the driver's seat.
* Does the dash light up?
* Does the starter click?
* Do you hear the fuel pump hum?

If you are sitting inside and you press the brake pedal, does the remote start shut down? It should. If it doesn't, you have a wiring issue.

When to Call a Professional

Sometimes, the issue is just over your head, and that is okay. You should call a shop if:

• You replaced the fob battery and the car battery, and it still doesn't work.
• You see loose wires dangling under the dashboard (don't touch these, remote start wiring is messy).
• The system tries to start, makes a grinding noise, and stops. This could be a starter motor issue or a tachometer programming issue.
• You recently had the car serviced. Mechanics sometimes accidentally disconnect ground wires or safety switches while working on other stuff.

Most installation shops charge a small fee to diagnose these things, and often it's just a loose ground wire or a reprogramming issue that takes them five minutes to fix.

Conclusion

Look, a remote starter that doesn't work is incredibly annoying, especially when it's 10 degrees out. But 9 times out of 10, it's not "broken." It's just doing what it was told to do-which is not start the car because a safety parameter (like a hood pin or a check engine light) is telling it to stop. Start with the fob battery, check the valet mode, and look for that check engine light. You'll probably be back in a warm car pretty quick.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Can I reset my remote car starter myself?

Yes, usually. Most systems can be reset by disconnecting the car battery for about 15 minutes. However, this might wipe out your radio presets. A softer reset often involves turning the ignition key to "Run" and pressing a button on the antenna (usually located on the windshield behind the rearview mirror) if you have an aftermarket system.

Why does my remote start turn off after a few seconds?

This is usually because the system isn't getting a good "tach signal." Basically, the remote starter doesn't know the engine is running, so it shuts off to prevent damage. It could also be the "Engine Checking" feature seeing a Check Engine Light or low oil pressure.

Does cold weather affect remote starters?

Yes. Cold weather drains battery power in both your key fob and your car. It also makes the oil thicker, making the engine harder to turn over. If the battery voltage drops too low during that hard crank, the remote starter will give up.

Where is the Valet Switch located?

If you have an aftermarket system (like Viper or Python), check the upper windshield area near the rearview mirror (on the antenna) or look under the driver's side dashboard near the kick panel. It is usually a small black toggle switch or a push button.

Why do my lights flash but the car won't start?

The flashing lights are an error code. Count them! For example, on many Compustar units, 7 flashes means the car is in "Reservation Mode" (for manual transmissions) or there is a door open. Consult your specific manual to decode the flashes.