Will Remote Start Work If Engine Light Is On

The Short Answer

If your Check Engine Light is on, your remote start is probably not going to work. Period.

I know, that’s super annoying especially if its freezing outside or blazing hot and you just want the cabin comfortable before you get in. But for about 90% of vehicles on the road today-especially if you are using the remote starter that came with the car from the factory-the computer is programmed to ignore the remote start request the second it sees that dreaded orange light on the dashboard.

Basically, your car is in "self-preservation mode." It doesn't know if the engine light is on because of something minor like a loose gas cap or something major like low oil pressure. Since you aren't in the driver's seat to watch the gauges or listen for weird noises, the car decides it's safer to just not start at all.

Why Does the Car Do This?

It feels like the car is punishing you, right? But there is actually a pretty good reason for it.

When you use remote start, the vehicle is running in what mechanics call an "unattended state." The car's computer (the ECU or PCM) takes on the responsibility of monitoring the engine. If the Check Engine Light is already illuminated, the computer knows a fault exists in the emissions or engine management system.

If the car allowed you to remote start it with a major problem, a few bad things could happen:

• Catastrophic Engine Failure: If the light is on because of an oil pressure issue or severe overheating risk, running the engine for 10 or 15 minutes without anyone noticing could destroy the motor.
• Emissions Issues: According to environmental regulations, a car generally shouldn't run if its emissions systems are compromised. Manufacturers disable remote start to stay compliant with EPA rules.
• Safety Hazards: If the fault is related to the throttle body or transmission, the car might behave unpredictably. Disabling the start function is the manufacturers way of avoiding a lawsuit.

So, while it puts a damper on your morning routine, the system is designed to save your wallet from a much bigger repair bill down the road.

Factory vs. Aftermarket Remote Starters

This is where things get a little bit tricky. The rule usually depends on who installed your remote starter.

Factory (OEM) Starters

If your remote start came with the car when you bought it (like on your key fob or through an app like FordPass or OnStar), the rules are strict. Almost every major manufacturer-Ford, GM, Toyota, Honda, Subaru-programs the ECU to disable remote start whenever a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) is stored.

Even if the light isn't currently flashing, but there is a "stored" code in the history that hasn't been cleared yet, the remote start might still refuse to fire up.

Aftermarket Starters

If you went to a shop and had a Viper, Compustar, or generic remote start system installed, you might have better luck. Older aftermarket systems are "dumb." They just send a signal to the ignition wire that says "turn on." They don't always check the status of the dashboard lights before doing their job.

However, modern aftermarket systems are smarter. They plug into the car's data network (CAN bus). If the aftermarket module reads the data from the car and sees an error, many of them will now also prevent the car from starting to protect the installer from liability. But, if you have an older system hardwired into an older truck, it might crank right up regardless of the warning lights.

The Most Annoying Culprit: The Gas Cap

I cannot tell you how many times I've had friends panic because their brand new truck won't remote start, and they think the transmission is blown up. Turns out, they just got gas the night before and didn't click the cap tight enough.

A loose gas cap causes an "Evaporative Emission Control System" leak (usually code P0442 or P0455). This triggers the Check Engine Light. Because the light is on, the remote start is disabled.

Try this first: Go out to the car, take the gas cap off, and put it back on. Turn it until it clicks at least once or twice. You might have to drive the car for a few days (or a specific number of miles) for the computer to re-check the system and turn the light off on its own. Once that light is out, your remote start should work again.

Troubleshooting: How to Get It Working Again

If tightening the gas cap didn't fix it, you have to figure out why the light is on. You can't just guess. Here is the step-by-step on how to handle this without spending a fortune at the dealership.

1. Read the Codes

You don't need to be a mechanic to do this. You can buy an OBDII scanner on Amazon for like $20. Or, you can drive to an AutoZone, O'Reillys, or Advanced Auto Parts. Most of them will come out to the parking lot and scan your car for free.

They will plug a little computer into a port under your steering wheel. It will spit out a code, usually starting with "P" (like P0300 or P0420).

2. Assess the Damage

Ask the guy at the parts store what the code means.

• Minor Issue: If it's an O2 sensor or a small EVAP leak, the car is likely safe to drive, but remote start won't work until it's fixed.
• Major Issue: If it's a "Misfire" or "Transmission" code, do not try to bypass the system. You need to get that fixed immediately.

3. Clearing the Codes (The Cheat Code)

Okay, so here is a little trick. If you scan the code and you know its something stupid (like an old sensor that acts up only sometimes), you can use the scanner to "Clear Codes."

When you clear the codes, the Check Engine Light turns off. Your remote start will work again immediately.

Warning though: If you didn't actually fix the problem, the light is going to come back on eventually. It might take 10 miles or 100 miles, but once the computer runs its tests and finds the problem again, the light pops on, and remote start gets disabled again.

Brand-Specific Quirks

Different car brands handle this differently. I've dug through some forums and manuals to give you a breakdown of what to expect based on what you drive.

Toyota and Lexus

Toyota is incredibly conservative with safety. If you have a Check Engine Light, a TPMS (Tire Pressure) warning, or sometimes even a "Maintenance Required" light, the remote start is dead in the water. They don't mess around. If the dashboard is lit up like a Christmas tree, the car stays off.

Ford and Lincoln

Ford is pretty strict too. The FordPass app will usually send you a notification saying "Remote Start Failed" and might even tell you why. If you have a "System Check" warning on the dash, the remote start is usually the first feature to get cut.

General Motors (Chevy, GMC, Cadillac)

GM vehicles are notorious for disabling remote start for emissions codes. This is very common on Silverado and Sierra trucks. If an O2 sensor goes bad, you lose your remote start. It’s super frustrating for truck owners in the winter, but that’s how the ECU is programmed.

Honda and Acura

Honda is similar to Toyota. They view the remote start as a luxury convenience feature that is only available when the car is in "perfect" health. If the CEL is on, the system is locked out.

Subaru

Subaru takes it a step further. On many newer models, if the Check Engine Light comes on, it also disables your Cruise Control, your X-Mode (traction), and your Remote Start all at once. It forces you to address the problem because driving the car becomes really annoying without those features.

What About Other Warning Lights?

Ideally, we are talking about the Check Engine Light (CEL) here. But what about other lights? Does a tire pressure light stop remote start?

TPMS (Tire Pressure): Usually, no. Most cars will still allow you to remote start if your tires are a little low. However, if the tire pressure is critically low (like a blowout detected), some newer luxury cars might prevent the start.

ABS / Traction Control: This is a toss-up. Usually, these lights are separate from the engine management system, so remote start might still work. But often, a problem that triggers the Check Engine Light will also trigger the Traction Control light (they are linked). In that case, no start.

Low Fuel Light: Yes, this one definitely stops it. Most remote starters check the fuel level. If the low fuel light is on, the system won't start the engine because it doesn't want to idle the car until it runs completely dry.

Can I Bypass It Without a Scanner?

People always ask me, "Can I just disconnect the battery to reset it?"

Technically, yes. On older cars (pre-2010 usually), disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes would reset the computer and turn off the light. This would temporarily restore your remote start.

But I don't recommend this on modern cars.

Newer cars have complex computers. If you disconnect the battery, you might reset your radio presets, your seat memory, your transmission learning patterns, and sometimes even the throttle body calibration. The car might run rough for a while after you reconnect it. It's much safer to just spend the $20 on a scanner tool to clear the code properly.

Is There a "Limp Mode" for Remote Start?

Sort of. Some people find that their remote start attempts to start, cranks for a second, and then shuts down immediately. This is the system doing a "health check."

It initiates the sequence, the engine spins, the sensors wake up, report a failure to the main computer, and the computer sends a "kill" signal to the ignition. If your car does this-starts and immediately dies-it is almost certainly because of a Check Engine warning or a security key issue.

Summary: What You Should Do Today

If you woke up to a cold car this morning because the remote start failed, here is your game plan:

1. Don't panic. Your car probably isn't dead.
2. Check the dash. Start the car manually with the key or button. Is the Check Engine Light on? If yes, that's your culprit.
3. Check the gas cap. Tighten it.
4. Scan it. Go to an auto parts store and get the code read.
5. Clear it or Fix it. If it's minor, clear the code to get your remote start back temporarily. If it's major, schedule a mechanic visit.

I know it feels like technology is working against you, but in this specific case, the engineers are just trying to keep your engine from melting down while you finish your coffee inside.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Will remote start work if the tire pressure light is on?
Usually, yes. Most cars treat tire pressure as a separate safety system and will still allow the engine to warm up. However, extremely low pressure might trigger a lockout on high-end luxury vehicles.

2. I cleared the code but the light came back on. Why?
Clearing a code doesn't fix the broken part. It just deletes the memory of the error. Once you drive the car, the computer re-tests that part. If it's still broken, the light comes back on (and remote start stops working again).

3. Can I force the remote start to work anyway?
Not easily. On a factory system, there is no "override" button. The software logic is hard-coded into the ECU. You would have to fix the engine issue to restore functionality.

4. Will a low battery stop remote start?
Yes. If the car's battery voltage is too low, the remote start system might not even try to crank the engine. It saves the remaining power for when you get in and use the physical key/button.

5. My Check Engine Light is NOT on, but remote start still won't work. What gives?
Check your hood latch! There is a safety switch under the hood (the hood pin). If that switch is broken or bent, the car thinks the hood is open. Remote start is disabled when the hood is open so a mechanic doesn't get their fingers chopped off by the fan belt.

6. Does the "Maintenance Required" light stop remote start?
Usually no. The "Maintenance Required" light (often for oil changes) is different from the "Check Engine" light. Most cars will still remote start if you just need an oil change, but some Toyotas are picky about this.