Key Takeaways
- Check Engine Light (CEL): If this light is on, your Chevy Cruze will disable remote start to protect the engine. This is the most common cause.
- Hood Latch Sensor: If the car thinks the hood is open (even if it looks closed), remote start wont engage for safety reasons.
- Key Fob Battery: A weak CR2032 battery can send a signal strong enough to lock doors but too weak to initiate the start sequence.
- Loose Gas Cap: This triggers an emissions code, which turns on the CEL, which then kills the remote start.
- Settings Menu: Sometimes the feature just gets toggled off in the vehicle settings after a battery change or software update.
The Short Answer: Why It's Not Working
If your Chevy Cruze remote start isn't working, the first thing you need to look at is your dashboard. Is the Check Engine Light on? If the answer is yes, then that is 100% why your car won't remote start. General Motors programs their vehicles to disable the remote start feature anytime there is a stored fault code in the computer. It does this to prevent the engine from running without a driver present just in case there is a serious mechanical issue.
If you don't have a check engine light, the next most likely culprits are a dead battery in your key fob or a broken hood latch sensor. Don't worry, we are going to walk through all of this step-by-step so you can get your car warming up (or cooling down) again before you get in.
The "Check Engine Light" Rule
I know I just mentioned this but I have to stress it because its the reason for probably 80% of these cases. The Chevy Cruze is a great car, but it can be a little sensitive when it comes to sensors.
According to the Chevrolet owner's manual and pretty much every GM mechanic out there, the remote vehicle start system (RVS) is designed to be disabled if the vehicle's On-Board Diagnostics (OBDII) system detects a problem. The logic here is actually pretty smart. If your oil pressure is low, or your engine is misfiring, the car doesn't want to run for 10 or 15 minutes with nobody watching the gauges.
Common Codes that Kill Remote Start
You might not see smoke coming from the engine, but a "silent" code can still be there. Here are the usual suspects for the Cruze:
- P0496 (EVAP System Flow During Non-Purge): This is super common on the Cruze. It usually means the purge valve is bad. It's a cheap part and easy to fix.
- P0420 (Catalytic Converter System): This one is more expensive but definitely triggers the light.
- P0442 (Small Leak in EVAP System): This is often just a loose gas cap.
If you have a Check Engine Light, you need to go to an auto parts store like AutoZone or O'Reillys. They will scan your car for free. Once you fix the problem and clear the code, your remote start will work again immediately.
The Hood Latch Sensor Issue
This is the second most annoying problem. There is a safety switch located in the latch mechanism under the hood of your car. Its job is to tell the computer if the hood is open or closed.
Why does this matter? Well, imagine a mechanic is working on your engine with his hands near the fan belt. If you were inside the house and accidentally sat on your key fob, you could remote start the car and seriously injure him. To prevent this lawsuits, Chevy made it so the car cannot remote start if the hood is open.
However, these sensors get dirty. They get full of grease, road grime, and salt. Sometimes the sensor breaks or gets stuck in the "Open" position even when the hood is slammed shut. If your dashboard says "Hood Open" but the hood is closed, or if you press the lock button and the car doesn't honk, this switch is probably your issue.
Quick Fix: You can try cleaning the latch mechanism with some WD-40 or brake cleaner to see if you can unstick the switch. If that doesn't work you might need to replace the latch assembly.
Your Key Fob Battery
Sometimes the simplest answer is the right one. Your key fob runs on a small coin-cell battery, usually a CR2032. Even if the battery still has enough juice to unlock the doors, it might be getting too weak to send the continuous signal needed for the remote start sequence.
The remote start requires a "long press" or a specific sequence (Lock + Hold Start). This draws more power than a quick "unlock" click. If the battery is on its last legs, the signal might drop out before the car acknowledges the command.
How to check your fob
Most auto parts stores have a little tester on the counter where you can press your buttons and see if it's sending a signal. If you haven't changed the battery in 2 or 3 years, just spend the $5 and swap it out. It's cheap insurance.
Also, check the contact points inside the remote. If you've ever dropped your keys in a puddle or spilled coffee on them, the little metal contacts inside could be corroded. Pop the case open and gently wipe the circuit board with a little rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip.
The "Hazard Lights" Condition
This is a weird one that catches people off guard. According to the factory settings, the remote start will be disabled if your hazard warning flashers are on.
I know, you're probably thinking, "Why would my hazards be on?" But sometimes if you park in a hurry and accidentally bump the button, or if you have a faulty hazard switch that is making a connection intermittently, the system locks out the remote start. Make sure that button isn't pressed.
Coolant and Oil Pressure Safety
The car is smarter than we give it credit for. It monitors vital fluids constantly. If the coolant temperature is too high (the car is overheating) or the oil pressure is too low, the system will refuse to start.
Usually, this would be accompanied by a warning light or a message on the Driver Information Center (DIC) on your dashboard. If you see a message about "Engine Overheated" or "Oil Pressure Low," do not try to force the car to start. You have bigger problems than a cold cabin!
Check Your Vehicle Settings
If you recently disconnected your main car battery to do some work, or if the battery died completely and you had to jump-start it, the car's computer might have reset to factory defaults.
On some trim levels of the Chevy Cruze, there is an option in the menu to turn Remote Start ON or OFF. If this got toggled to "Off," the car won't respond to the fob no matter what you do.
How to check:
- Press the Config or Menu button on your center console.
- Scroll down to Vehicle Settings.
- Look for Remote Lock, Unlock, Start.
- Find Remote Vehicle Start and make sure there is a checkmark next to "On".
The Gas Cap (Yes, Really)
I touched on this earlier with the check engine light, but it deserves its own section because it happens so often. Modern cars have a pressurized fuel system. If the gas cap is loose, cracked, or the rubber seal is dried out, the system loses pressure.
The car detects this as a "leak" in the evaporative emissions system. It throws a code. The code disables the remote start.
Go out to your car, take the gas cap off, and put it back on. Turn it until it clicks at least three times. If the rubber seal looks cracked, buy a new gas cap for $15. You might need to drive the car for a few days for the computer to re-check the system and turn the light off on its own.
Maximum Start Attempts
Did you know there is a limit to how many times you can remote start the car? Chevy limits you to two remote starts between ignition cycles.
Here is how it works:
- You remote start the car (That's #1). It runs for 10 minutes then shuts off.
- You remote start it again (That's #2). It runs for another 10 minutes.
- You try a third time... Nothing happens.
This is to prevent you from accidentally starting the car in your pocket and having it run until it runs out of gas. To reset this counter, you have to physically get in the car, put the key in the ignition (or press the push-to-start button), and turn the car on. Once you do that, the counter resets back to zero.
Aftermarket vs. Factory Systems
Everything I've written so far applies to the Factory (OEM) remote start that came with your Cruze. But a lot of people add aftermarket systems (like Viper or Compustar) later on.
If you have an aftermarket system, the troubleshooting is different. These systems usually have a "Valet Mode." If you accidentally put the system in Valet Mode (usually by pressing a specific combination of buttons or flipping a hidden switch), the remote start is disabled so a parking valet doesn't accidentally trigger it.
Look at the antenna usually stuck to your windshield behind the rearview mirror. Is there a blue LED light that is solid instead of flashing? Or not lighting up at all? You might need to look up the manual for your specific aftermarket brand to figure out how to exit Valet Mode.
Troubleshooting Step-by-Step Guide
Okay, lets break this down into a checklist. If I was standing there with you, this is exactly what I would do, in this order:
- Look at the Dash: Turn the key to the "On" position. Is the Check Engine Light staying on? If yes, go get the codes read and fixed. This is usually it.
- Test the Fob: Does the lock/unlock work from a far distance? If you have to be right next to the car to unlock it, change the battery.
- Check the Hood: Open the hood and slam it shut firmly. Ensure no floor mats or debris are blocking the pedals (sometimes there are safety switches down there too).
- Check the Settings: Go into the radio menu and ensure Remote Start is enabled.
- Check Doors: Make sure all doors, including the trunk, are fully closed.
- The "On-Off" Cycle: Start the car with the key, drive it around the block, and turn it off. Then get out, lock it, and try again. This resets the "Two Start Limit."
When to see a Mechanic
If you have checked the engine light (and there are no codes), changed the fob battery, and verified the settings, but it still won't work, you might have a hardware issue.
Sometimes the Body Control Module (BCM)-which is the computer that controls accessories like windows, locks, and remote start-gets corrupted or fails. This isn't something you can fix in your driveway. You need a dealership or a shop with a high-end scanner to reprogram the BCM.
Another possibility is the receiver module in the car itself. If the car isn't receiving the signal from the key at all (and the key is good), the receiver might be dead. This is rare on the Cruze, but it happens.
Conclusion
To wrap this up, don't panic. 9 times out of 10, your Chevy Cruze remote start isn't broken-it's just disabled because of a safety protocol. The car is trying to protect itself. Start with the Check Engine Light. If that light is on, solve that problem, and your remote start will come back to life like magic.
It's frustrating when you just want a warm car in the winter, but usually, the fix is as simple as a gas cap or a $5 battery. Good luck!
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I bypass the Check Engine Light to make remote start work?
A: Technically, no. The car's computer is hard-coded to ignore the remote start request if a CEL is present. You have to clear the code. Some people use cheap OBDII scanners to "clear" the codes right before they want to start it, but the light will come back if you don't fix the actual problem.
Q: Why do my parking lights flash but the car won't start?
A: If the lights flash once, it usually means the car received the signal but refused the command. This confirms the key fob is working, but one of the safety parameters (Hood open, CEL on, Hazard lights on) is preventing the start.
Q: How much does it cost to fix the remote start?
A: It depends on the cause. If it's a key fob battery, it's $5. If it's a loose gas cap, it's free (or $15 for a new one). If it is a bad hood latch, the part is usually around $40-$60. If it's an engine issue causing a Check Engine Light, the cost depends on that specific repair.
Q: Does my Chevy Cruze even have remote start?
A: Not all models do. Look at your key fob. Do you have a button with a semi-circle arrow on it? If yes, you have it. Also, check your RPO codes in the glove box. Look for code BTV. If you see BTV, your car came from the factory with remote start.
Q: I replaced the battery in the car and now remote start doesn't work. Why?
A: When the main battery dies, the Body Control Module sometimes "forgets" the learned value of the key or resets the settings. Check your Vehicle Settings menu to ensure it's turned on. If it is on and still fails, you might need to have the keys relearned to the car.