Why Did My Remote Starter Stop Working

Most of the time, your remote starter stopped working because the battery in your key fob is dead or the system has accidentally gone into "Valet Mode." If you press the start button and nothing happens-or the parking lights flash but the engine doesn't crank-it is almost certainly one of those two things. Don't panic, you probably don't need a tow truck.

I know how frustrating this is. You bought the remote start so you wouldn't have to sit in a freezing car, and now here you are, freezing. I've been there with my own truck more times than I care to admit. Before you go calling the dealership and spending $150 just for them to look at it, let's walk through the easy fixes first.

Here is a breakdown of why this happens and exactly how you can fix it yourself.

1. The Key Fob Battery (The #1 Suspect)

I know, I know. You're looking at your key fob right now, pressing the button, and seeing the little LED light flash. You're thinking, "The light works, so the battery is fine."

Trust me on this, that little light lies to you.

It takes very little power to light up that tiny LED, but it takes a lot more power to send a strong radio frequency signal through your house walls and out to the driveway. When the battery gets low (usually around 3 volts for a standard CR2032), it has enough juice to blink, but not enough to talk to the car. It’s kinda like when your phone is at 1%-the screen is on, but try opening a heavy app and it crashes.

How to troubleshoot this:

• Get close: Walk right up to the driver's window and try to remote start it. If it works from 2 feet away but not from inside the house, your battery is dying.
• Swap it out: Go to the store and grab a new battery. They are usually CR2032 or CR2016 coin batteries. You can find them at any pharmacy. Pop the case open (usually you just need a coin or a small screwdriver) and switch it.
• Check the terminals: Sometimes the little metal contacts inside the remote get bent or dirty. If you see green gunk on them, wipe it off with a q-tip and some rubbing alcohol.

If you have a spare remote (you should always keep the spare somewhere safe), try that one. If the spare works, then you know for a fact the issue is with your main remote's hardware or battery.

2. You're Stuck in "Valet Mode"

This is honestly the second most common reason I see. Valet Mode is a feature designed to disable the remote start function so that a mechanic or valet driver doesn't accidentally start your car while they are working on the engine. It’s a safety feature, but it’s really easy to trigger accidentally.

Usually, this happens because the buttons on your fob got mashed while the keys were in your pocket or purse. For many systems, like Viper or Compustar, pressing the "Lock" and "Trunk" buttons at the same time turns Valet Mode on.

How do I know if I'm in Valet Mode?

Look at your car when you try to remote start it. Does the remote make a weird buzzing sound (if it's a 2-way remote)? Do the parking lights on the car flash three times fast, but the engine does nothing? That is the universal sign for "I'm sleeping."

Also, look at the antenna. Most aftermarket remote starters have an antenna mounted on the windshield behind the rearview mirror. If the little blue LED light on that antenna is solid (not blinking) while the car is off, you are definitely in Valet Mode.

How to fix it:

This depends on your brand, but here are the common ways:

• Button Combo: Try pressing "Lock" and "Trunk" together quickly (tap, don't hold).
• The Ignition Method: Put your key in the ignition. Turn it to the "Run" position (don't start the engine), then back to off. Do this 5 times fast. On the 5th time, tap the brake pedal. This works for a lot of older systems.
• Check the Manual: I hate saying "read the manual," but if you know the brand of your starter, Google "[Brand Name] exit valet mode." It takes two seconds.

3. The Hood Pin Switch is Broken

This one sounds technical, but it’s super simple. Your remote starter has a safety kill-switch under the hood. It’s usually a little metal pin that looks like a plunger, or sometimes it's a mercury tilt switch attached to the hood hinge.

The job of this switch is to tell the car, "Hey, the hood is open!" If the car thinks the hood is open, it will absolutely refuse to remote start. This is so that if a mechanic is changing your oil, you don't accidentally start the engine and chop their fingers off with the fan belt. It’s a pretty important safety feature.

The problem: Under the hood is a dirty, wet, hot place. Those little switches get corroded, rusty, or bent really easily.

If the switch is broken or the wire fell off, the system thinks the hood is open all the time.

How to check:

Pop your hood and look along the edges. Find the little plunger switch. Is it rusty? Is it bent at a weird 45-degree angle? Try pressing it down with your finger-does it move smoothly or is it crunchy?

You can try disconnecting the wire to the pin temporarily to see if the car starts (be careful doing this). If you disconnect it and the car starts, you know the pin is bad. You can buy a replacement hood pin for like $5 online. Don't just leave it disconnected though, that's dangerous specially if you take your car in for service.

4. Your "Check Engine" Light is On

Modern cars are smart. Too smart sometimes. If you have a factory remote starter (one that came with the car from the dealership, like on a Ford or a Honda), the computer checks everything before it allows the engine to fire up.

If your dashboard has a "Check Engine" light on-even for something stupid like a loose gas cap-the computer will disable the remote start. It does this to protect the engine. It doesn't want to start the car and let it idle for 15 minutes if there is a potential problem with the oil pressure or emissions.

The Fix: You have to clear the code. If you have an OBD2 scanner, check what the code is. If it’s just an EVAP leak (gas cap), tighten the cap and clear the code. Once the warning light is off the dash, your remote start should work again immediately.

5. The Car Battery Voltage is Too Low

We talked about the fob battery, but what about the actual car battery?

When it gets really cold (which is exactly when you want to use your remote start), car batteries lose power. According to Wikipedia and basic physics, lead-acid batteries drop significantly in efficiency when the temperature hits freezing.

Your car might still have enough power to start if you turn the key yourself, but the remote starter brain is picky. If the voltage drops below a certain point (usually around 11.5 volts), the remote start system might abort the start sequence to save whatever juice is left so you aren't stranded.

If you notice the car cranks very slowly when you start it with the key, your battery is probably on its way out. The remote starter is just trying to save you from killing it completely.

6. You Have a Coolant or Oil Sensor Issue

Some remote starters, specially the diesel ones or higher-end 2-way systems, monitor the engine's vitals. There is a "Tachometer" (RPM) signal that the remote start needs to "learn." This tells the starter when to stop cranking the starter motor.

If the car cranks, starts for a second, and then immediately shuts off, this is usually a Tach sensing issue. The system didn't "hear" the engine start, so it killed the power thinking the start failed. It might try this 3 times in a row and then give up.

The Fix: This usually requires reprogramming the Tach signal. For most systems, you start the car with the key, let the idle settle down to normal (under 1000 RPM), and then hold the remote start button for 3 seconds until the lights flash. This "teaches" the system what the running engine sounds like.

7. The Door Latch Switch

Just like the hood pin, the car needs to know the doors are closed. If your dashboard says "Door Ajar" but all the doors are closed, you have a bad door sensor. The remote starter will not activate if it thinks a door is open because, again, safety.

Also, make sure your car is locked. Most OEM remote starters (like GM or Toyota) require you to press "Lock, Lock, Start." If the car thinks a door is open, it won't lock, and therefore it won't start.

8. Blown Fuses

It’s rare, but it happens. The remote start system is an electrical component, and it has its own fuses. There are usually inline fuses on the wiring harness under the dashboard.

If absolutely nothing happens-no clicks, no flashes, no lights on the antenna-you might have blown the main power fuse for the unit. You'll need to crawl under the dash (bring a flashlight) and look for the thick wires connected to the remote start brain. Look for the plastic fuse holders and check if the wire inside the fuse is broken.

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So, What Should You Do First?

Okay, that was a lot of info. If you are standing in your driveway right now freezing, here is your order of operations:

1. Change the remote battery. It's the cheapest and easiest fix.
2. Check for Valet Mode. Look for that solid blue light on the antenna or listen for the weird buzzing from the remote.
3. Look at the dash. Is the Check Engine light on? Is the Door Ajar light on?
4. Check the Hood Pin. Pop the hood and wiggle that little plunger switch.

If you have done all of that and it still doesn't work, you might have a loose wire connection under the dash. At that point, unless you are comfortable splicing wires, it’s probably time to take it back to the shop that installed it. If it was a Best Buy or a local audio shop, they usually have a lifetime warranty on the labor, so they might fix it for free.

Don't let a cold car ruin your morning. It’s usually something small!

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I reset my remote starter myself?

Yes, usually. While every brand is different, many can be reset by disconnecting the car battery for about 15 minutes. This forces the remote starter "brain" to reboot. Just be aware that this might also reset your radio presets and clock.

Why does my car start but then shut off after 5 seconds?

This is almost always a "Tach Mode" failure or a security bypass issue. The remote starter turns the engine on, but the car's computer doesn't "see" the valid key signal (immobilizer issue) or doesn't realize the engine is running, so it shuts it down to be safe.

Will a check engine light disable my remote start?

On factory-installed remote starters? Yes, almost always. On aftermarket starters (like Viper)? Usually not, unless the specific error causes the car to run rough or stall. But generally, the factory systems are much stricter about this.

How much does it cost to fix a remote starter?

If it’s just a battery, it’s $5. If it’s a hood pin, it’s maybe $10 for the part. If the "brain" of the unit is fried, you might be looking at $100-$300 to replace the unit. However, most issues are labor-related (loose wires), which might cost an hour of shop labor ($80-$120) if you are out of warranty.

Why do my parking lights flash 7 times?

Flashes are error codes. While they vary by brand, 7 flashes is often related to the "Timer Mode" or a manual transmission safety setup not being set correctly. 3 flashes is usually a door or hood open. You need to look up the "Flash error codes" for your specific brand of starter.